Sunday, August 16, 2026 (Day 11)—Ulster American Folk Park and then Dublin

Posted on August 16, 2026 by dunngone

After awakening, showering, etc. our luggage was repacked and moved to just outside the hotel room door for portage. And then after breakfast, we were driven, via motor coach, to Dublin by way of the Ulster American Folk Park. We passed through County Tyrone, one of the six counties of Northern Ireland, a new country for the both of us. Northern Ireland is a separate country from the Irish Republic; it is a part of the United Kingdom, AND as such uses the pound as its monetary system, and uses both the metric system and imperial system. The Irish Republic is an INDEPENDENT country, is part of the European Union, and follows their monetary (euros) and measurement system (strictly metric).

And here is more on the geopolitical lesson we learned on the trip. The United Kingdom is a sovereign country, Great Britain is a geographic island, and England is one of the individual countries located on that island. The full name of the United Kingdom is the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and includes the following countries: England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland. Great Britain, on the other hand, is a geographic landmass, the largest island in the British Isles, and includes England, Scotland, and Wales, BUT DOES NOT INCLUDE Northern Ireland. England is, thus, a specific constituent country.

There was little difference when crossing the boundary from the Irish Republic into Northern Ireland, except that speed limit signs were posted in miles per hour rather than kilometers per hour.

We made our way to the Ulster American Folk Park in Northern Ireland.

International Appalachian Trail Sculpture at entrance to Ulster American Folk Park

The park is a 40-acre open-air museum that chronicles the historical journey of millions of Irish emigrants who left Ulster for North America during the 18th and 19th centuries. (My great, great grandfather and grandmother were emigrants from Ireland.) The museum is uniquely designed to take visitors on a physical and chronological journey, starting in the thatched cottages of the Old World and ending in the log cabins of the American frontier.

Volunteers in period costumes demonstrated day-to-day tasks of the era.

In total, site consisted of period housing, industry, and even a full-scale sailing ship.

After visiting the Folk Park, we were driven to a local restaurant for a BIG Sunday lunch. Thankfully, I did not eat because there was entirely too much food—in fact, it was much like our traditional Thanksgiving meal.

After lunch we completed the transfer to Dublin, the capital and largest city of the Irish Republic. Upon arrival, we checked in to our hotel, relaxed a bit, had the usual three-course dinner, and settled in to our rooms for the evening.

Saturday, August 15, 2026 (Day 10)—Killybegs, Learning to Speak Irish, Glencolmcille

Posted on August 15, 2026 by dunngone

We finally experienced typical Irish weather on Day 10 of the tour as it drizzled off and on all day. However, the drizzle did not adversely affect our great Ireland tour.

After yet another Irish buffet breakfast, we boarded the motor coach and were driven to Killybegs.

Killybegs is a picturesque coastal town in County Donegal, Ireland. Situated along the scenic Wild Atlantic Way, it is famous for holding the title of Ireland’s largest and deepest fishing port, and serves as a bustling hub for massive midwater pelagic trawlers, international cargo, and visiting cruise liners.

We did a walking tour of the town and took photos.

Following our tour of Killybegs, we re-boarded the motor coach and rode through the countryside to Glencolmcille, a spectacularly remote, coastal district located on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean in southwest County Donegal, Ireland.

Interestingly, Glencolmcille is rarely on a standard Irish tour itinerary—it takes a bit of effort to get there—but due to the stark beauty of its landscape, it has been drawing visitors for over 1,500 years.

While Glencolmcille is famous for its rugged cliff landscapes, it is also known for its rich early Christian and pagan archaeological sites, and its status as an Irish-speaking (Gaeltacht) region. In regard to the latter, we bused to a cultural center and took an Irish language lesson from a lovely young Irish lass. Lessons are taught there to hundreds of students of all ages from all over the world.

Subsequent to the lesson, we had an expert-led walk beginning at the St. Columba Church of Ireland, a historic Anglican church located the valley of Glencolmcille. The church sits on a prominent hillside that was originally a 6th-century early Christian settlement established by Saint Columba.

Traces of an ancient underground refuge (souterrain) remain beneath the graveyard. The church serves as the vital first and final stop (Stations 1 and 15) of the famous Turas Colmcille, a traditional multi-hour penitential walking pilgrimage route weaving through the valley. While at the church, we walked to the first of the ritual stations.

The stations are comprised of prehistoric megalithic tombs, rough stone cairns, and early Christian standing cross-slabs. Many of the standing stones are carved out of local schist and feature elaborate geometric patterns, cross carvings, and artwork reminiscent of 8th-century metalwork. The Turas Colmcille, comprised of these fifteen Pilgrimage Stones, retrace the steps of pilgrims from 500 CE. Many of the standing stones and sites pre-date Christianity and were likely sacred pagan sites later re-consecrated. Note the “stone” atop the cliff in the photo below.

On our return to Killybegs, a stop was made at Silver Strand Beach.

The Beach (known locally as An Trá Bhán) is a remote, horseshoe-shaped sandy beach located in Malin Beg, near Glencolmcille in southwest County Donegal, Ireland.

Famed for its pristine white sand and dramatic green cliffs, it is widely considered one of the most stunning hidden gems along the Wild Atlantic Way.

We had dinner back at the hotel in Killybegs, and prepared for check-out and transfer the following morning.

Friday, August 14, 2026 (Day 9)—Sligo, Drumcliffe, and Donegal

Posted on August 14, 2026 by dunngone

After the breakfast buffet and checking out of the hotel, we boarded the motor coach and were enroute to County Donegal with stops at Sligo and Drumcliffe. County Donegal possesses one of Ireland’s most untouched and ruggedly beautiful landscapes. Riding through the countryside, it is obvious that County Donegal has been largely untouched by the passage of time. And, as with the other parts of the Irish island, the Donegal people are renowned for their warmth and hospitality.

A “comfort” stop was made at Knock Shrine, a major Roman Catholic pilgrimage site located in the village of Knock, County Mayo, Ireland.

It is officially recognized as an International Eucharistic and Marian Shrine. Knock Shrine is most famous for a heavenly apparition appearing against the gable wall of the parish church. On August 21, 1879, fifteen villagers reported seeing the Blessed Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, Saint John the Evangelist, and a lamb standing on an altar surrounded by angels. The apparition occurred during a period of severe economic distress and famine fears in Ireland, serving as a beacon of hope and consolation. One of the key attractions on the ground was the Apparition Chapel; this chapel was built around the original gable wall of the old parish church, housing a stunning white marble carving of the apparition scene.

Another key attraction was the Knock Basilica, a massive, modern church capable of holding approximately 10,000 people.

The Basilica grounds were surrounded by stores and shops selling religious artifacts.

Another stop was at Sligo, a charming Irish coastal seaport located along the iconic Wild Atlantic Way.

It represents a blend of a small urban center, but with breathtaking natural landscapes as it is framed by dramatic mountains and rugged coastlines.

It was at a pub in Sligo (if memory serves us correctly) that we had the best seafood chowder ever, filled with fresh North Atlantic delicacies.

Sligo is rich in Celtic history, is a legendary traditional music scene, and has a deep connection to the Nobel Prize-winning poet W. B. Yeats, who drew lifelong inspiration from the area’s folklore and scenery. While in Sligo, I walked through the 2026 World Press Photo Contest; interesting!

Our next stop, five miles north of Sligo, was at Drumcliffe, lying in the shadow of the flat-topped Ben Bulben mountain.

Drumcliffe is the final resting place of W.B. Yeats. Yeats, a Nobel Prize winner, is remembered as an important cultural leader, a major playwright, and one of the very greatest poets of the century. He is buried in the churchyard of St. Columba’s Church. Founded in 574 AD, St. Columba Church is a 6th-century monastic site; the grounds hold a deeply rooted Christian history.

Yeats’ simple headstone bears his self-penned, haunting epitaph: “Cast a cold eye on life, on death. Horseman, pass by!”.

While visiting the churchyard, we were entertained by a local harpist.

After this last stop, the motor coach continued to our hotel in Donegal where we checked in, had dinner, and were entertained by a couple of local musicians who regaled us with a performance of traditional Irish music.

Saturday, August 8, 2026 (Day 3)—Ireland’s History and the Dingle Peninsula

Posted on August 8, 2026 by dunngone

After a buffet breakfast, we adjourned to a meeting room where a detailed itinerary of the tour’s activities was provided.

Afterwards, a lecture on Irish history was presented by a local expert.

When taken in full, the last couple hundred years was a sad time in the country’s history.

After a couple hours of “free time”, we were driven to the Dingle Peninsula via motorcoach to view “the most beautiful place on earth” as once cited by National Geographic magazine.

The narrow, winding roads exposed the pastoral countryside broken abruptly by rugged cliffs along the seaside intermixed with wide gently curving beaches. (Click on an image to enlarge.)

The resulting sea scape was incredibly beautiful. Slea Head Drive, a world-famous 24-mile circular drive located on the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula was breathtakingly beautiful.

The local expert discussed the area’s rich archaeological heritage and unique culture, the latter owing to a Gaeltacht— an area where the Irish language is widely spoken at home, in the workplace, and at school. Our group leader, Shiela, explained the importance of the Irish Gaelic language and ways in which the local governments and communities have made efforts towards its preservation, particularly since the establishment of the Irish Free State in the 1920s.

We had a stopover in Dingle Town—with its colorful, pastel building facades. Dingle is a fishing port and the only major town on the Dingle Peninsula. (Click on an image to enlarge.)

Following our free time in Dingle Town, the tour continued along the Slea Head Drive to view more sights along “Wild Atlantic Way”. (Click on an image to enlarge.)

Many ancient stone structures were observed as the local guide discussed their prehistoric and medieval construction. Included were the beehive huts (clocháns) and the mysterious Gallarus Oratory.

The Beehive huts, or clochain, are ancient dry stacked stone dwellings with corralled roofs. These structures dated roughly fin the 7th to 12th centuries, serving as early Christian monastic hermitages or local shelters.

The Gallarus Oratory is an ancient stacked stone church on the Dingle Peninsula. It is shaped like an upturned boat, and features an ingenious corbelled stone roof built without mortar. It dates from the early Christian or medieval period (approx. 8th to 12th century) and remains completely waterproof (sort of).

We returned to the hotel a bit tired after our field trip (about 100 miles and 4 hours of motor coach riding, and three miles of walking). The remainder of the afternoon was free.

Tuesday, July 8, 2025–Zurich Walking Tour and Boat Cruise

Posted on July 8, 2025 by dunngone

From Basel, we were transported to Zurich by bus. Zurich is the largest city in Switzerland and is its economic and financial center. This city is in the north of the country.

Zurich is an upmarket banking city and the financial capital of Switzerland. It, therefore, comes as no surprise that it’s often labelled as the most expensive in the world, and we can personally attest to its expensive nature! Zurich is famous for luxurious lifestyles, high-end shopping, and fancy chocolates. However, despite its expense and extravagance, it is also ranked as one of the best cities to live in the world. Boasting highly urbanized districts that sit amidst historical and cultural areas, Zurich is also the biggest city in Switzerland. It is also extremely well situated. It sits right on Lake Zurich and has the waters of the River Limmat running right through it. And all this at the foot of the Swiss Alps.

The Old Town is Zurich’s tourist hub.

Zurich’s waterfront along the Limmat River is a beautiful and popular area, featuring the Limmatquai promenade with picturesque views and famous church towers.

The Fraumunster is a church in Zurich which was built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratic women and which was founded in 853 by Louis the German for his daughter Hildegard. Fraumünster was once part of Fraumunster Abbey founded in A. D. 853. In 1272, the bones of the first two abbesses, Hildegard and Berta, were placed in the south wall of the church transept.

About 1300, someone painted a fresco above their resting place. Someone painted over the original mural which was uncovered in 1847. Franz Hegi made a watercolor copy of the original in 2006. Today, it belongs to the Evangelical Reformed Church of the canton of Zurich and is one of the four main churches of Zurich, the others being the Grossmunster, St. Peter’s, and Prediger churches.

The Grossmunster is a Romanesque-style Protestant church in Zurich. Its congregation forms part of the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zurich. The core of the present building, near the banks of the Limmat, was constructed on the site of a Carolingian church, which was, according to legend, originally commissioned by Charlemagne. Construction of the present structure commenced around 1100 and it was inaugurated around 1220. The twin towers of the Grossmunster are regarded as perhaps the most recognized landmark in Zurich

The “green tower with clock” in Zurich refers to the clock tower of St. Peter’s Church. It’s a prominent landmark in Zurich, known for having the largest clock face in Europe. The tower itself is predominantly green, with a distinctive wooden roof covered in larch shingles.

Prediger is the last of the four main churches of the old town of Zurich. First built in 1231 AD as a Romanesque church of the then Dominican Predigerkloster, the Basilica was converted in the first half of the 14th century, the choir between 1308 and 1350 rebuilt, and for that time an unusual high bell tower was built, regarded as the highest Gothic edifice in Zürich.

I did not go on this excursion due to a significant head cold. All photos are by Kay.

Friday, July 4, 2025–Mainz Walking Tour and Gutenberg Museum

Posted on July 4, 2025 by dunngone

Our walking tour of Mainz focused mainly on the Old Town and its many historic assets.

Mainz’s Old Town is a charming area known for its historic buildings, picturesque squares, and vibrant atmosphere. It features winding streets, half-timbered houses, baroque churches, and is a place where history and modern life intertwine. The Old Town also offers a variety of shops, restaurants, and wine taverns, making it a popular destination for both locals and tourists. The Old Town is the oldest part of Mainz, with a history dating back to Roman times. It boasts a mix of architectural styles, including half-timbered, baroque, and rococo façades, creating a unique and picturesque streetscape. The Wood Tower is a mediaeval tower in Mainz, Germany, with the Iron Tower and the Alexander Tower one of three remaining towers from the city walls. Its current Gothic appearance dates to the early 15th century. It is so named because wood used to be piled next to it on the bank of the Rhine.

Many smiling locals were enjoying coffee and pastries at the several outdoor cafes in the Market Square. Market Square is Mainz’s most popular square and is dominated by the iconic Mainz Cathedral. The square became a popular trading place when the cathedral was built in 975. Traditionally, merchants offered wool, cloth, fur, baked goods, and fruit and vegetables. Products were set out in large baskets on the floor. The Renaissance market fountain was built in 1526. The water fountain was an important source of fresh water for nearby residents. In 1889, a Madonna figure was added to the fountain. Most of the houses in the square date to the 18th century. World War II bombs heavily damaged Market Square. In 1975, Mainz celebrated the thousandth anniversary of the cathedral and committed to re-designing and rebuilding the square. Many of the buildings were rebuilt with historical facades. The market takes place Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, and we were fortunate enough to have visited on a Friday. Also, as an aside, Market Square hosts a vibrant Christmas Market during the Christmas holiday season.

Mainz also has some quirky traffic lights.

The magnificent Mainz Cathedral, or St. Martin’s Cathedral, dominates the skyline and is a major attraction in the Old Town. It is situated near the historical centre and market square.

This Roman Catholic cathedral church has stood witness to more than 1000 years of history and is the site of the Episcopal see of the Bishop of Mainz. Together with the cathedrals of Worms and Speyer, the Mainz Dom represents the summit of Romanesque cathedral architecture seen in Germany. Predominantly Romanesque in style, the cathedral has however had later additions to it, making it a wonderful blend of architectural styles from various eras. It is a beautiful experience to see the six red sandstone towers of the St. Martin’s Cathedral rise above the Mainz cityscape with half-timbered houses. To give you an idea about the historic importance of this cathedral, it is enough to say that through the centuries, seven coronations were hosted here. During the World War II, almost 80% of Mainz was destroyed by bombing, but the cathedral had stood unharmed. It is almost completely surrounded by buildings. The largest dome shows a blend of Roman and Baroque styles and beneath it is the transept separating the west chancel from the nave and smaller east chancel. Many supporting pillars in the nave are adorned with carved and painted statues.

The Gutenberg Museum is one of the oldest museums of printing in the world, located opposite the cathedral in the old part of Mainz, Germany. It is named after Johannes Gutenberg, a native son of Mainz and the inventor of printing from movable metal type in Western Europe and focuses on him and his inventions. The museum’s collection includes two original Gutenberg Bibles that date back to the middle of the 15th century and are widely regarded as some of the finest books of all time.

The reconstruction of Gutenberg’s workshop is another main attraction, and our guide demonstrated what the printing process would have been like in Gutenberg’s day.

The Collegiate Church of St. Stephan, known in German as St. Stephan zu Mainz, is a Gothic hall collegiate church located in the German city of Mainz. It is known for windows created by Marc Chagall. St. Stephan was originally built in 990 at the order of Archbishop Willigis, who also initiated the building of Mainz Cathedral. The current church building dates from the late medieval era; construction of the main area of the church began in about 1267 and was completed in 1340. St. Stephan was heavily damaged in the bombing of Mainz in World War II. The Chagall choir windows in St. Stephan are unique in Germany. Between 1978 and his death in 1985, Russian Jewish artist Marc Chagall created nine stained-glass windows of scriptural figures in luminous blue. The figures depict scenes from the Old Testament, demonstrating the commonalities across Christian and Jewish traditions. Chagall intended his work to be a contribution to Jewish-German reconciliation, made all the more poignant by the fact that Chagall himself fled France under Nazi occupation.

Thursday, July 3, 2025–Historic Koblenz

Posted on July 3, 2025 by dunngone

Finally, the record heat that has enveloped this part of Europe has disappeared and temperatures are now more “normal” with highs in the 70s and lows in the 50s—a welcome change indeed.

This is our second visit to Koblenz, having toured here August 17, 2015. Koblenz, a major German city, is at the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine Rivers. Koblenz was established as a Roman military post in 8 BC.

The Rhine Gorge was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002, with Koblenz marking the northern end because of its beauty as a cultural landscape, its importance as a route of transport across Europe, and the unique adaptations of the buildings and terraces to the steep slopes of the gorge. Some of the sites we visited are discussed below.

The statue of Kaiser Wilhelm rises imposingly here, at 37 meters high.

The Electoral Palace in Koblenz is one of the most important palace buildings of early French classicism in southwest Germany and is one of the last residential palaces built in Germany immediately before the French Revolution. Elector Clemens Wenzeslaus had the Electoral Palace built between 1777 and 1786. From 1850 to 1858, the Prussian Crown Prince and later Emperor Wilhelm I resided here as Prussian military governor. In 1944, the Electoral Palace was destroyed down to the outer walls and rebuilt in 1950-51.

The St. Castor Basilica is the oldest preserved church in Koblenz. The collegiate church, consecrated in 836, was the scene of significant historical events. The monastery of St. Kastor was the meeting and arbitration place of emperors and kings as well as their descendants. In 842, the Romanesque church was the venue for the negotiations of the sons of Emperor Louis the Pious, which led to the partition of the Frankish Empire in the Treaty of Verdun the following year. The building in its present form dates mainly from the middle of the 12th century. On July 30, 1991, Pope John Paul II elevated the Castor church to the status of basilica minor. Together with the Liebfrauenkirche and the Florinskirche, the St. Castor Basilica shapes the silhouette of the Koblenz old town.

On the highest point in the Old Town stands the Romanesque Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche), also known as the Notre Dame Church.

Although what’s seen today dates from the 12th century with later 15th-century additions, there’s evidence pointing to a much older 5th-century place of worship having been built here by the Romans. Notable features include its splendid Gothic choir and the attractive onion-shaped Baroque towers with their four bells, famous for tolling the “Reveler’s Bell” at 10pm each evening.

We also toured the 12th-century St. Florin’s Church (Florinskirche), notable for the old cannonball above the baptismal vault — a reminder of the destruction of the city during earlier wars — and its picturesque setting overlooking an attractive public square.

The Old Town (Altstadt) district of Koblenz has been painstakingly restored after the devastation of WWII. Highlights of our walking tour included the Town Hall (Rathaus), built between 1695 and 1700, in front of which is the humorous Schängelbrunnen, a monument designed in 1940 by Carl Burger and dedicated to poet Josef Cornelius, who penned the lyrics for the city’s “hymn” (watch out for the spitting boy!).

The town clock in Saint Florin’s market in Koblenz contains more than one face. It’s adorned with an image that according to local lore represents Johan Lutter, a 16th century robber. Though he was sentenced to death and lost his head in 1536, his visage still keeps watch over Koblenz’s Old Town from beneath the clock. The face’s eyes roll back and forth as the pendulum moves, marking the passage of time. When the clock strikes the hour or half hour, the whimsical sheet metal man sticks out his tongue to mock the good citizens of Koblenz. This depicts the gruesome yet morbidly comical expression Lutter supposedly made in his final moments. Some legends even say he continued to roll his eyes and wiggle his tongue after his head lay severed from his body.

Today’s upstream sailing took us by castles at almost every bend of the Rhine River.

Tuesday, July 1, 2025–Trier Highlights

Posted on July 1, 2025 by dunngone

One of our favorite things about cruising with the Viking is their easily accessible, espresso, cappuccino, and/or latte at any time of the day. Kay and I awoke relatively early, 5:00 AM, and I went to the cappuccino machine and made us each a cappuccino and picked up a couple of muffins for a pre-breakfast snack. The coffees were very tasty.

After catching up on news and mail, and hot showers, we went to breakfast and enjoyed eggs Benedict with a few sides and, of course, fresh coffee. And then it was off to catch the bus for both a bus and walking tours of Trier, Germany. Trier is Germany’s oldest city, dating back to Roman Times. Trier is a southwestern German city in the Moselle wine region, near the Luxembourg border. Founded by the Romans, it contains several well-preserved Roman structures like the ruins of Roman baths, an amphitheater just outside the center and a stone bridge over the Moselle River.

Among the best preserved Roman structure is the Porta Nigre Gate.

The Porta Nigra Gate was built in grey sandstone after 170 AD. The original gate consisted of two four-storeyed towers, projecting as near semicircles on the outer side. A narrow courtyard separated the two gate openings on either side. The gate was used as a town entrance for centuries until the end of the Roman era in Trier. In Roman times, the Porta Nigra was part of a system of four city gates, one of which stood at each side of the roughly rectangular Roman city. It guarded the northern entry to the Roman city

The Archaeological Museum displays Roman artifacts, including The Trier Gold Hoard. The gold is a hoard of 2516 (or 2518) gold coins with a weight of 18.5 kg found in Trier, Germany, in September 1993 during construction works. It is described as the largest preserved Roman gold hoard worldwide..

Among Trier’s many Catholic churches is Trier Cathedral.

Because of its significance during the Roman and Holy Roman empires, several monuments and cathedrals within Trier are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.