After breakfast on Wednesday morning, Kay and I walked to the nearest “Hop On Hop Off”green bus stop for a windshield tour of Dublin. After completing the circuit, we got off and did a walking tour of Trinity College and library.

Trinity College in Dublin is Ireland’s oldest and highest ranked university; it was founded in 1592. Located on a beautiful 47-acre campus in the heart of Dublin city center, it is world-renowned for its historic architecture, academic excellence, and the famous Book of Kells. Notable alumni include Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker, and Mary Robinson.

The college contains several landmarks such as the Campanile, the Graduates Memorial Building, the Rubrics, and the 16th century Trinity Library. The Library’s legal deposit serves both Ireland and the United Kingdom, and has housed the Book of Kells since 1661, the Trinity College harp since 1782, and a copy of the Proclamation of the Irish Republic since 1916.

The Book of Kells is displayed within a custom-built, state-of-the-art climate-controlled case designed to showcase its intricate Celtic ornamentation and vibrant imagery; no photos were allowed. The Book of Kells is a masterwork of Western calligraphy and the absolute pinnacle of Insular illumination. Created around 800 AD, this highly decorated manuscript contains the four Gospels of the New Testament in Latin. It is celebrated globally as Ireland’s greatest cultural treasure. Some key historical facts are as follows: 

• Crafted by Celtic monks at a monastery on the Scottish island of Iona.
• Moved to the Abbey of Kells in County Meath, Ireland, after a brutal Viking raid in 806 AD.
• Survived a major 11th-century theft where its gold, gem-encrusted shrine was ripped off.
• Transferred to Trinity College in 1661 during the Cromwellian upheavals.
• Composed of 340 folios (680 pages) made from high-quality prepared calfskin called vellum.
• Written in a bold, expert version of the medieval script known as insular majuscule.
• Filled with vibrant Celtic knotwork, mythical creatures, anthropomorphic initials, and Christian symbolism.
• The Chi Rho page (Matthew 1:18) features incredibly dense, microscopic interlocking patterns.

The Old Library complex also holds other immense pieces of Irish heritage, including the Brian Boru Harp, Ireland’s oldest surviving harp and the model for the national emblem.

The Old Library complex also has an original printing of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic.

Immediately after the Treasury, we entered the the soaring 210+ feet barrel-vaulted hall lined with marble busts of history’s greatest philosophers and writers.

NOTE: Approximately 200,000 of the oldest books have been cleared from the Long Room’s towering oak shelves for intensive cleaning and structural safety upgrades. Consequently many of the famous shelves looked bare.

Following the great tour of Trinity College, we walked back to the bus stop, and then walked to the hotel, enjoying the sights and sounds along the way.

We had a final “goodbye” dinner with tour group, and returned to the room to pack for the trip home.

On Thursday morning, we arose from bed, had breakfast, and caught the transport to the Dublin international airport. Check-in was easy and speedy, and the wait for the plane was relatively short. The economy seats had a bit more leg room than on previous international flights, making the 7 hour flight to Chicago less difficult. After an almost 8 hour wait in Chicago, we caught a small plane to Little Rock, retrieved our luggage, was ushered to the car park, and drove the hour home, arriving just past midnight.

On our first full day in Dublin, we did a short field trip exploring Dublin’s rich heritage. The old storefronts proved most interesting.

We stopped at a pub, Porter’s, for a Guinness and lunch.

Interestingly, the young man behind Kay turned and joined in our conversation regarding how to drink Guinness beer, and advised us that we were doing it all wrong; that we had to wait for all the bubbles to rise to the top. And in fact, it did taste smoother. But, it does take quite some time for the bubbles to rise to the top, and the bartender will fill the pint about half full, then set it aside for a few minutes before filling it the rest of the way, And then, after being served, one waits a couple more minutes for the last draw to “settle”.

I succumbed to the peace and quiet of the hotel room while Kay and the other tour group members attended a short theatre performance. Later in the afternoon, Kay and I stayed close to the hotel, and mostly rested.

On Tuesday, August 18 (Day 13 of the trip), our Road Scholar group was bused to visit the Kilmainham Gaol Prison Museum in Dublin, the most famous and historic prison museum in Ireland.

Kilmainham Gaol opened in 1796 as the new County Gaol for Dublin. For over 100 years Kilmainham Gaol held thousands of men, women and children for crimes that ranged from minor offenses to being involved in some of the most momentous events in Irish history. There was no segregation of prisoners; men, women and children were incarcerated up to 5 in each cell, with only a single candle for light and heat.

Most of their time was spent in the cold and the dark, and each candle had to last for two weeks. Its cells were roughly 300 square feet in area.

Children were sometimes arrested for petty theft, the youngest said to be a three-year-old child, while many of the adult prisoners were transported to Australia.

While most of the prisoners were common criminals, it also held political prisoners involved in Ireland’s struggle for independence. Included among those held here were leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, 14 of whom were executed by firing squad in the Stonebreaker’s yard (the cross marks the spot).

Originally, public hangings took place at the front of the prison. And then in 1891, a small hanging cell was built in the prison; it was located on the first floor, between the west wing and the east wing. And lastly, was execution by firing squad in the Stonebreaker’s yard (the cross marks the spot).

Later in the morning we toured EPIC, The Irish Emigration Museum. A world-renowned, the fully digital museum explored the history of Ireland and its global impact, and particularly the migration of Irish women and men to the US, Australia, and other countries. Unlike traditional museums, it is the world’s first completely digital museum, using 20 high-tech, motion-sensor galleries to tell the powerful stories of the 70 million people worldwide who claim Irish heritage.

Kay and I walked back to the hotel, enjoying the sights and sounds of Dublin, where we spent the remainder of the day.

Did the title get your attention?

We begun our day tour with a walk to the Galway Hooker Sailing Club to observe restoration efforts on one of Ireland’s traditional wooden sailing boats.

A Galway hooker is a traditional wooden sailing boat from the west coast of Ireland, famous for its distinct black hull and dark red-brown sails. Developed in the late 18th century, these sturdy and agile vessels were built to withstand the rough seas of the Atlantic Ocean. The name “hooker” comes from “hook and line” fishing, which was the primary long-lining method used by local fishermen before nets became widespread. 

The restoration efforts we witnessed are on the 1924 hooker named Claddagh and the Galway Hooker Sailing Club is employing master boat builders from around the world expert in traditional wooden boat construction. It was quite fascinating watching one of the young craftsmen working on the boat while we were there.

Our next tour stop was the Galway Harbor. The harbor, aka Port of Galway, dates back to the 10th century, and is located directly in the heart of Galway City. There, we saw both old and new marine vessels, as well as commercial ships and small fishing boats.

Since lunch was on our own, Kay and I walked to The Kings Head Pub where we enjoyed the best chowder we’d ever eaten; it was filled with chunky seafood.

Somewhat used to the routine, we arose from bed, had a quick hotel room coffee, and packed suitcases and placed them outside the room for portage and transfer to Galway. And then it was off to another big breakfast.

After breakfast, the motor coach departed Killarney with an ultimate destination of Galway.

A “comfort stop” was made in Adare.

Adare is picturesque village located in County Limerick, Ireland, roughly 10.5 miles southwest of Limerick City.  Renowned as “Ireland’s prettiest village” and designated as an official heritage town, it is famous for its distinct architectural character, blending beautifully preserved 19th-century thatched-roof cottages with rich medieval history. Adare will also host the 2026 Ryder Cup.

The village also boasts a collection of historically preserved monastic buildings, including the 13th-century Holy Trinity Abbey (the only historical Trinitarian monastery in Ireland, now a Catholic church) and the 14th-century Augustinian Friary.

Built by the Dunraven estate in the 1820s, thatched cottages—iconic, flower-framed structures—line Main Street and have been converted into premium craft shops, boutiques, and cafes.

The Burren will be discussed in Day 6, Part 2 to follow.