Sunday, August 16, 2026 (Day 11)—Ulster American Folk Park and then Dublin

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After awakening, showering, etc. our luggage was repacked and moved to just outside the hotel room door for portage. And then after breakfast, we were driven, via motor coach, to Dublin by way of the Ulster American Folk Park. We passed through County Tyrone, one of the six counties of Northern Ireland, a new country for the both of us. Northern Ireland is a separate country from the Irish Republic; it is a part of the United Kingdom, AND as such uses the pound as its monetary system, and uses both the metric system and imperial system. The Irish Republic is an INDEPENDENT country, is part of the European Union, and follows their monetary (euros) and measurement system (strictly metric).

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And here is more on the geopolitical lesson we learned on the trip. The United Kingdom is a sovereign country, Great Britain is a geographic island, and England is one of the individual countries located on that island. The full name of the United Kingdom is the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and includes the following countries: England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland. Great Britain, on the other hand, is a geographic landmass, the largest island in the British Isles, and includes England, Scotland, and Wales, BUT DOES NOT INCLUDE Northern Ireland. England is, thus, a specific constituent country.

There was little difference when crossing the boundary from the Irish Republic into Northern Ireland, except that speed limit signs were posted in miles per hour rather than kilometers per hour. 

We made our way to the Ulster American Folk Park in Northern Ireland.

International Appalachian Trail Sculpture at entrance to Ulster American Folk Park

The park is a 40-acre open-air museum that chronicles the historical journey of millions of Irish emigrants who left Ulster for North America during the 18th and 19th centuries. (My great, great grandfather and grandmother were emigrants from Ireland.)  The museum is uniquely designed to take visitors on a physical and chronological journey, starting in the thatched cottages of the Old World and ending in the log cabins of the American frontier.

Volunteers in period costumes demonstrated day-to-day tasks of the era.

In total, site consisted of period housing, industry, and even a full-scale sailing ship. 

After visiting the Folk Park, we were driven to a local restaurant for a BIG Sunday lunch. Thankfully, I did not eat because there was entirely too much food—in fact, it was much like our traditional Thanksgiving meal. 

After lunch we completed the transfer to Dublin, the capital and largest city of the Irish Republic. Upon arrival, we checked in to our hotel, relaxed a bit, had the usual three-course dinner, and settled in to our rooms for the evening. 

Saturday, August 15, 2026 (Day 10)—Killybegs, Learning to Speak Irish, Glencolmcille

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We finally experienced typical Irish weather on Day 10 of the tour as it drizzled off and on all day. However, the drizzle did not adversely affect our great Ireland tour. 

After yet another Irish buffet breakfast, we boarded the motor coach and were driven to Killybegs.

Killybegs is a picturesque coastal town in County Donegal, Ireland. Situated along the scenic Wild Atlantic Way, it is famous for holding the title of Ireland’s largest and deepest fishing port, and serves  as a bustling hub for massive midwater pelagic trawlers, international cargo, and visiting cruise liners.

We did a walking tour of the town and took photos.

Following our tour of Killybegs, we re-boarded the motor coach and rode through the countryside to Glencolmcille, a spectacularly remote, coastal district located on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean in southwest County Donegal, Ireland.

Interestingly, Glencolmcille is rarely on a standard Irish tour itinerary—it takes a bit of effort to get there—but due to the stark beauty of its landscape, it has been drawing visitors for over 1,500 years.

While Glencolmcille is famous for its rugged cliff landscapes, it is also known for its rich early Christian and pagan archaeological sites, and its status as an Irish-speaking (Gaeltacht) region. In regard to the latter, we bused to a cultural center and took an Irish language lesson from a lovely young Irish lass. Lessons are taught there to hundreds of students of all ages from all over the world.

Subsequent to the lesson, we had an expert-led walk beginning at the St. Columba Church of Ireland, a historic Anglican church located the valley of Glencolmcille. The church sits on a prominent hillside that was originally a 6th-century early Christian settlement established by Saint Columba.

Traces of an ancient underground refuge (souterrain) remain beneath the graveyard. The church serves as the vital first and final stop (Stations 1 and 15) of the famous Turas Colmcille, a traditional multi-hour penitential walking pilgrimage route weaving through the valley. While at the church, we walked to the first of the ritual stations.

The stations are comprised of prehistoric megalithic tombs, rough stone cairns, and early Christian standing cross-slabs. Many of the standing stones are carved out of local schist and feature elaborate geometric patterns, cross carvings, and artwork reminiscent of 8th-century metalwork. The Turas Colmcille, comprised of these fifteen Pilgrimage Stones, retrace the steps of pilgrims from 500 CE. Many of the standing stones and sites pre-date Christianity and were likely sacred pagan sites later re-consecrated. Note the “stone” atop the cliff in the photo below.

On our return to Killybegs, a stop was made at Silver Strand Beach.

The Beach (known locally as An Trá Bhán) is a remote, horseshoe-shaped sandy beach located in Malin Beg, near Glencolmcille in southwest County Donegal, Ireland.

Famed for its pristine white sand and dramatic green cliffs, it is widely considered one of the most stunning hidden gems along the Wild Atlantic Way.  

We had dinner back at the hotel in Killybegs, and prepared for check-out and transfer the following morning.

Friday, August 14, 2026 (Day 9)—Sligo, Drumcliffe, and Donegal

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After the breakfast buffet and checking out of the hotel, we boarded the motor coach and were enroute to County Donegal with stops at Sligo and Drumcliffe. County Donegal possesses one of Ireland’s most untouched and ruggedly beautiful landscapes. Riding through the countryside, it is obvious that County Donegal has been largely untouched by the passage of time. And, as with the other parts of the Irish island, the Donegal people are renowned for their warmth and hospitality.

A “comfort” stop was made at Knock Shrine, a major Roman Catholic pilgrimage site located in the village of Knock, County Mayo, Ireland.

It is officially recognized as an International Eucharistic and Marian Shrine. Knock Shrine is most famous for a heavenly apparition appearing against the gable wall of the parish church. On August 21, 1879, fifteen villagers reported seeing the Blessed Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, Saint John the Evangelist, and a lamb standing on an altar surrounded by angels. The apparition occurred during a period of severe economic distress and famine fears in Ireland, serving as a beacon of hope and consolation. One of the key attractions on the ground was the Apparition Chapel; this chapel was built around the original gable wall of the old parish church, housing a stunning white marble carving of the apparition scene.

Another key attraction was the Knock Basilica, a massive, modern church capable of holding approximately 10,000 people.

The Basilica grounds were surrounded by stores and shops selling religious artifacts.

Another stop was at Sligo, a charming Irish coastal seaport located along the iconic Wild Atlantic Way.

It represents a blend of a small urban center, but with breathtaking natural landscapes as it is framed by dramatic mountains and rugged coastlines.

It was at a pub in Sligo (if memory serves us correctly) that we had the best seafood chowder ever, filled with fresh North Atlantic delicacies.

Sligo is rich in Celtic history, is a legendary traditional music scene, and has a deep connection to the Nobel Prize-winning poet W. B. Yeats, who drew lifelong inspiration from the area’s folklore and scenery. While in Sligo, I walked through the 2026 World Press Photo Contest; interesting!

Our next stop, five miles north of Sligo, was at Drumcliffe, lying in the shadow of the flat-topped Ben Bulben mountain.

Drumcliffe is the final resting place of W.B. Yeats. Yeats, a Nobel Prize winner, is remembered as an important cultural leader, a major playwright, and one of the very greatest poets of the century. He is buried in the churchyard of St. Columba’s Church. Founded in 574 AD, St. Columba Church is a 6th-century monastic site; the grounds hold a deeply rooted Christian history.

Yeats’ simple headstone bears his self-penned, haunting epitaph: “Cast a cold eye on life, on death. Horseman, pass by!”.

While visiting the churchyard, we were entertained by a local harpist.

After this last stop, the motor coach continued to our hotel in Donegal where we checked in, had dinner, and were entertained by a couple of local musicians who regaled us with a performance of traditional Irish music.

Thursday, August 13, 2026 (Day 8)—Inis More (Aran Islands)

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After breakfast, the motor coach took us along the Connemara coast to the village of Rossaveel. At the village’s harbor, we boarded a ferry and sailed to Inis Mor, the largest of the Islands of Aran.

The Aran Islands are a group of three rugged limestone islands located at the mouth of Galway Bay off the west coast of Ireland. Known for their sheer Atlantic cliffs, maze-like network of hand-built drystone walls, and deep-rooted Celtic heritage, they are a prominent Gaeltacht region where the Irish language (Gaeilge) is spoken daily. 

From the pier, we walked perhaps a half mile to the community center to experience a talk about the area’s civilization and history by one of Inis Mor’s most notable residents.

At the community center, we were met by Dierdre Ni Chinneide, an acclaimed Irish singer and composer. (She’s also a psychotherapist, spiritual director, and workshop facilitator). Dierdre Ni Chinneide lectured on Inis Mor, this last remnant of authentic Gaelic civilization, where Christian ruins stand side by side with remarkable Pagan relics. After the talk, she sang a beautiful song, exposing her delightful and engaging voice. It’s no wonder she is considered Ireland’s leading singer. She has two albums: Celtic Passage and I Will Sing for You available for sale.

Afterwards, we had the rest of the morning free, and set out in mini-van to explore the island. The beautiful Irish countryside yielded an infinite number of photo-worthy scenic views.

Our intent was to visit a couple key sites on the island, First was the Wormhole, a breathtaking, naturally formed rectangular rock pool into which the sea ebbs and flows through underground channels. Second was a world-renowned 3,000-year-old prehistoric hillfort perched precariously on the edge of a sheer 100-meter-high cliff. We found the sites to be a bit sketchy (slippery path, too far to hike, etc.) and crowded beyond comfortable. The views along Inis Mor’s narrow, winding roads did provide some interesting views.

The mini-van driver was friendly, accommodating, and sang a couple of songs, but he overcharged us compared to what we’d been told by other drivers! Kay had to pay in what USD she had available which was still a bit short.

All in all we found Inis Mor to be underwhelming and a huge disappointment. We met the rest of our fellow tourists at the Inis Mor harbor waiting on the ferry to carry us back to the mainland.

We returned to Galway via the ferry and motor coach, and enjoyed dinner with the rest of the tour group.

Wednesday, August 12, 2026 (Day 7, Part 2)— Galway City Center and Gaelic Poetry

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After the heavy meal of seafood chowder at The Kings Head Pub, we met the rest of the group for a tour of the Old City of Galway. This tour covered over 800 years of medieval history, starting from the central Eyre Square and winding through narrow lanes down to the waterfront Spanish Arch. Our very knowledge expert local guide led us on pedestrian-only cobblestone streets into the medieval heart of the “City of the Tribes”. This was one of the most educational tours on the trip.

As we begun the Old City tour, we strolled under the Spanish Arch, one of the first notable icons of the Old City. The Spanish Arch is a 16th century fortification—city wall—standing at the edge of the River Corrib where ocean-going merchant ships used to unload wine and spices.

Eyre Square is the heart of the Old City and is the medieval heart of Ireland’s cultural capital, a maze of vibrant pedestrian streets and medieval stone fortifications. Among the notable area in the Old City, the Latin Quarter and High Street forms the vibrant epicenter of Old Galway. sIt is characterized by cobblestone pedestrian-only streets, brightly colored storefronts, and historic pubs.

We walked past Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas. Built in 1320, it is the largest continuous medieval parish church still in active use in Ireland.

And there was this statue of Oscar Wilde and Eduard Vilde, depicting a fictional meeting between two famous late 19th-century writers who shared a similar surname but never actually met in real life.

And, near the end of the walking tour we passed by Lynch’s Castle, standing as Ireland’s finest surviving example of a fortified medieval townhouse, and noted for its ornate limestone carvings and gargoyles.

Regarding Lynch’s Castle, as part of the tour, Kay participated in a reenactment of a historic tryst in Galway. This refers to the famous 1493 legend of Agnes Browne and her two suitors in Galway, which led to a fatal jealous clash and a dramatic mayoral execution. 

Agnes Browne was engaged to Walter Lynch, the son of James Lynch FitzStephen, the powerful mayor and magistrate of Galway. A young Spanish merchant named Gomez from Cadiz was staying with the family as a guest of trade and caught the attention of local women, making Walter intensely jealous. Convinced Agnes was unfaithful, Walter spied Gomez leaving her house one night and stabbed him to death in a fit of rage. Mayor James Lynch tried and convicted his own son, ultimately executing him from a window of his own house when local crowds prevented a standard public hanging. You can still see the Lynch Memorial Window today near St. Nicholas’ Church.

As if the Old City tour wasn’t enough, we were treated to fine dining at an upscale restaurant where the meal was preceded by poetry reading by a local college faculty member.

Wednesday, August 12, 2026 (Day 7, Part 1)—Galway Hookers and Galway Bay

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Did the title get your attention?

We begun our day tour with a walk to the Galway Hooker Sailing Club to observe restoration efforts on one of Ireland’s traditional wooden sailing boats.

A Galway hooker is a traditional wooden sailing boat from the west coast of Ireland, famous for its distinct black hull and dark red-brown sails. Developed in the late 18th century, these sturdy and agile vessels were built to withstand the rough seas of the Atlantic Ocean. The name “hooker” comes from “hook and line” fishing, which was the primary long-lining method used by local fishermen before nets became widespread. 

The restoration efforts we witnessed are on the 1924 hooker named Claddagh and the Galway Hooker Sailing Club is employing master boat builders from around the world expert in traditional wooden boat construction. It was quite fascinating watching one of the young craftsmen working on the boat while we were there.

Our next tour stop was the Galway Harbor. The harbor, aka Port of Galway, dates back to the 10th century, and is located directly in the heart of Galway City. There, we saw both old and new marine vessels, as well as commercial ships and small fishing boats.

Since lunch was on our own, Kay and I walked to The Kings Head Pub where we enjoyed the best chowder we’d ever eaten; it was filled with chunky seafood.

Tuesday, August 11, 2026 (Day 6, Part 2)—The Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, and then to Galway

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From Adare, we traveled to the famous Cliffs of Moher, perhaps Ireland’s most visited tourist attraction (after the Guiness Brewery).

The Cliffs of Moher stretch for just over 8 miles along the wild Atlantic coast of County Clare. Rising up to 702 feet at their highest point, these dramatic shale and sandstone cliffs form part of a UNESCO Global Geopark where continuous, volatile force of coastal erosion reshapes the cliffside. We walked most of the half mile of 800 meters of protected, paved paths and viewing platforms, stopping often to take photos. 

As we traveled along the Wild Atlantic coast, the narrow winding road offered unsurpassed scenery. Old churches, castle remains, long unused rock houses, and green pastures were seen. (Click on an image to enlarge it.)

After the Cliffs of Moher, the motor coach took our tour group to the Burren National Park, and along with the Cliffs of Moher the area is recognized as the UNESCO Burren and Cliffs of Moher Global Geopark.

The Burren (from the Irish Boíreann, meaning “rocky place”) is a vast, out-of-this-world looking glaciated karst landscape located in northwest County Clare, Ireland. It covers roughly 200 square miles and is famous for its cracked limestone pavements, subterranean caves, unique biodiversity, and thousands of years of human history.

Our local guide focused on the area’s ecology, and particularly the flora (I was like a kid in a candy shop). Despite its barren appearance, the Burren is a thriving ecological hotspot. The deep grikes provide a sheltered, humid microclimate that allows contrasting plant species to grow side-by-side. It is the only place in the world where Arctic, Alpine, and Mediterranean flora share the same ecosystem. We saw several species comprising part of the vibrant population of blue gentians, mountain avens, and 23 varieties of native Irish orchids blooming directly out of the rock. (Click on an image to enlarge it.)

We completed our transfer to Galway by motor coach, checked in to the hotel, and enjoyed a late dinner before retiring for the evening.

Tuesday, August 11, 2026 (Day 6, Part 1)—Adare and the Cliffs of Moher

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Somewhat used to the routine, we arose from bed, had a quick hotel room coffee, and packed suitcases and placed them outside the room for portage and transfer to Galway. And then it was off to another big breakfast.

After breakfast, the motor coach departed Killarney with an ultimate destination of Galway.

A “comfort stop” was made in Adare.

Adare is picturesque village located in County Limerick, Ireland, roughly 10.5 miles southwest of Limerick City.  Renowned as “Ireland’s prettiest village” and designated as an official heritage town, it is famous for its distinct architectural character, blending beautifully preserved 19th-century thatched-roof cottages with rich medieval history. Adare will also host the 2026 Ryder Cup.

The village also boasts a collection of historically preserved monastic buildings, including the 13th-century Holy Trinity Abbey (the only historical Trinitarian monastery in Ireland, now a Catholic church) and the 14th-century Augustinian Friary.

Built by the Dunraven estate in the 1820s, thatched cottages—iconic, flower-framed structures—line Main Street and have been converted into premium craft shops, boutiques, and cafes.

The Burren will be discussed in Day 6, Part 2 to follow.

Monday, August 10, 2026—Killarney National Park

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After breakfast, we walked a bit to near Killarney National Park, our tour destination for the day. There, we met our local expert guide.

Killarney National Park sits adjacent to the city, and is a sprawling 26,000-acre UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. (NOTE: Twinned with Glacier National Park in Montana, USA, Killarney National Park has been designated as a Biosphere Reserve by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) for work in conservation and research.) As Ireland’s very first national park, it protects the country’s only wild herd of native red deer (which we didn’t see), its largest remaining stands of ancient oak woodland, and the world-famous Lakes of Killarney. Nestled at the foot of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks—Ireland’s highest mountain range—the park seamlessly blends rugged natural landscapes with centuries of rich Irish heritage.

As we walked along the park’s perimeter, the guide pointed our the various flora and its importance to the ecosystem.As the group walked along the trail, the guide pointed out that Rhododendrons were nuisance plants inasmuch as they grow disproportionately large and tall, some becoming trees, shading out native trees and shrubs.

And, we had to make way for the numerous horse-drawn carriages, locally known as “jaunting cars”.

Much of the trail overlooked the beautiful lake(s) in the background.

Killarney National Park has many heritage sites including Killarney House and Gardens, Muckross House and Gardens, Copper Mines, Innisfallen, Muckross Abbey, the Briceen and Old Weir Bridges.

Killarney House and Gardens serves as the primary visitor center for Killarney National Park. This beautifully restored 18th-century residence offers a mix of historical period rooms, a vast multimedia exhibition about the park’s biodiversity, and meticulously manicured formal gardens with stunning views of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range.

A “Red Bus” ride took us to Muckross House and Gardens.

Muckross House is a magnificent 19th-century Victorian mansion located on the Muckross Peninsula within the spectacular Killarney National Park in County Kerry, Ireland. Built in 1843 in the Tudor architectural style, it features 65 rooms and is famous for its stunning lakeside views, extensive gardens, and its history—including a famous visit by Queen Victoria in 1861. In 1932, the estate was gifted to the Irish nation, and this is when Killarney National Park became the country’s very first National Park.

The formal garden at the rear of the mansion were spectacular.

The manicured lawn (front yard in Arkansas talk) provided great green space for families to enjoy.

A half mile walk (hike) took us to Muckross Abbey.

The Abbey is a remarkably well-preserved 15th-century ruined Franciscan friary located within the heart of the National Park. The current stone structure was built in 1448 for the Observantine Franciscans by the local chieftain Donal McCarthy Mor. The friary endured centuries of brutal raids. The monks were driven out, and parts of the structure were burned down, in 1652 by Oliver Cromwell’s forces.

A massive, towering yew tree grows directly out of the center of the interior cloister courtyard. Local folklore estimates it is over 500 years old—making it nearly as old as the stone walls built around it.

Unlike many medieval ruins whose upper tiers are completely lost, visitors can safely climb narrow, winding stone staircases to explore the friars’ old living quarters, dormitory, and dining halls.

An Historic Graveyard borders the ruins. It serves as the final resting place for historic Gaelic clan chieftains (like the O’Donoghues) and several legendary 17th- and 18th-century Kerry poets. 

Back at the hotel, we had dinner and and early bedtime.

Sunday, August 9, 2026 (Day 4)—The Famous Ring of Kerry

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Day four of the tour featured the Ring of Kerry, a notorious 111-mile circular drive around the Iveragh Peninsula through dramatic coastal cliffs, sweeping mountain passes, sparkling lakes, and colorful, traditional Irish villages.

The roads are well-maintained but notoriously narrow, winding, and bordered by stone walls or hedges. The “Ring of Kerry” drive begins and ends in Killarney, and exposed us to green mountains, blue lakes, old castles, and wild ocean views, passing through the towns of Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, and Sneem. 

Our first stop was a roadside tourist “market” with a couple of colorful local characters, not counting the ass.

And the landscapes were quite scenic. 

We stopped in Rossbeigh and visited the dramatic Blue Flag Beach.

Even our tour director and one of the group opted to swim; Kay said, “No way!”

Since it harbors all kinds of marine life and seabirds, it is a designated natural heritage area and a Special Area of Conservation.

Another stop was at the Daniel O’Connell Memorial Park in Cahersiveen. The park provided a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of touring.

The park looks directly across the Carhan River toward the ruins of Carhan House, where Daniel O’Connell was born. Daniel O’Connell was known as “The Liberator” or “The Emancipator”, and was a monumental Irish political leader, lawyer, and statesman who revolutionized 19th-century constitutional nationalism. He is most celebrated for securing Catholic Emancipation in 1829, granting Irish and British Roman Catholics the legal right to sit in the Westminster Parliament and hold public office. 

While waiting to board the motor coach, the driver demonstrated equipment used in hurling. 

Hurling is national indigenous game; it is an ancient, fast-moving bat-and-ball sport played with a wooden bat made out of ash called a hurly and a small ball, slightly smaller than an American baseball, called a sliotar. Later that evening, Kay and I watched a women’t hurling match, and it’s not only fast and furious, but dangerous as well. Kay demonstrated her hurling acumen for the rest of the group.

Following a typical (big) Road Scholar lunch, we made our way to the village of Sneem, a picturesque village on Iveragh Peninsula along the Wild Atlantic Way and the Ring of Kerry. (Click on an image to enlarge it.)

From Sneem, we continued the motor coach trip around the Ring of Kerry. Along the way we passed the Loher Stone Fort.

Large tour buses are legally required to drive counterclockwise (heading towards Killorglin first) due to the narrow roads. Apparently, several RVs and tour buses failed to get the “memo” and drove the wrong way, resulting in traffic chaos and accidents on the narrow roads. Our driver did a miraculous job of handling the many detours and difficult maneuvering spaces, and plaudits to our group for not complaining or bitching.

After five hours of bus riding and over two miles of walking, we had dinner at the hotel and retired for the evening.