Rough seas last night (11+ feet waves) preceded landing in Santa Marta shortly after sunrise. Coffee in bed allowed a slow wake up!
After breakfast, we caught a shuttle to the end of the pier for a walk around the downtown area nearest the shoreline. Santa Marta is the oldest city in Colombia and the second oldest in South America; it is a relatively clean city. Street vendors were everywhere, and were quite aggressive. It worked as I bought two more Panama hats (2 for $11), a pair of Oakley sunglasses ($10, but likely knockoffs), and 3 bottles of beer. The shopping area was a beehive of activity with people everywhere. All the hustle and bustle was exciting.
Street vendors in Santa Marta, ColombiaMotorcycles are the main mode of transportation
Having a Colombian beer while watching the other tourists
This troupe of guys on bicycles were really, really goodSanta Marta’s beautiful beach and coastal inletA sucker for making an old boat photo
The rest of the day was set aside as “executive time.” Time advances forward again tonight.
The beautiful skyline of Cartagena, Colombia, came into view as the Norwegian Gem sailed into the cruise’s Day 12 port. On the country’s northern coast facing the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena is Columbia’s most visited city.
Cartagena, Columbia
Today’s excursion was a carriage ride to an old Spanish fortress, Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, and through the old 16th century walled city. Despite rubber surfaces on the carriage’s steel wheels, the narrow cobblestone streets provided a loud, bouncy ride. Both the old fortress and the Colonial city were crowded.
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas in Cartagena, ColumbiaCartagena’s colonial city
After the short “tour”, the carriages stopped at a shopping area where many vendors were aggressively hawking their wares. I purchased a Panama hat (most of which are made in Colombia) while Kay bought a necklace and bracelet after chasing after her in the carriage for an entire city block! Of course, the only respite from the vendors was a sidewalk bar for sampling Colombian beer—very cold, good, and a bit hoppy. We were impressed with Cartagena’s beauty and cleanliness.
One has to pay to play
A great Colombian beer
Tonight’s show featured a ventriloquist—good, but not our cup of tea.
Up early to witness transit into the first lock chamber, I found the usual breakfast deck already crowded, but did find an empty table with an aft view—numerous ships waiting to pass through the Canal.
Ships anchored, waiting to transit the Panama CanalPanama City, Panama
As we approached the initial lock chamber, I tried to find a place on the fore deck, but it was about a dozen deep, as were all decent viewing areas. I finally settled in an upper fore lounge, with a poor view but having air conditioning and comfortable chairs where Kay joined me.
Double lock gates on the original Panama CanalA large ship transiting the higher new canal
From there, a move to the Atrium allowed live viewing on the big screen, almost as good as the real thing but with fewer people. We continued to watch from various view points on the ship as the Norwegian Gem made her maiden passage through the 40-mile Panama Canal, exiting into the Atlantic Ocean about 4 PM. As one of the world’s greatest engineering feats, transiting the Panama Canal has been a near lifelong desire. It can now be checked off our life list!
Nearing the Panama Canal lock chamber exit
After another mediocre dinner, we attended the late evening show of Piano Man Stephen Kane.
Another time change, from Central Standard Time to Eastern Standard Time, accompanied our departure last night, marking the eighth time zone experienced on this trip.
We used another day at sea for “executive time”, i.e. we basically did very little except for reading email, talking with other cruisers, watching television, etc. while sailing from Costa Rica to the Panama Canal. As expected, the pool area was packed from daylight on.
We again had dinner with birders Don and Marianne from Dallas, after which we watched the Broadway-style “Blazing Boots” show presented by the exceptional cast of Norwegian Gem singers and dancers, and liked it so well we watched it again later in the evening.
As the ship anchored about 10 PM to take on fuel and get in queue for locking through the Canal, we retired for the night to get television feedback on the State of the Union speech and rebuttal.
As the sun rose above the horizon, the Norwegian Gem sailed into the port city of Puntarenas, Costa Rica. The high, heavily forested coastal mountains were a bit of a surprise as a more lush environment was expected, like that seen on travel brochures highlighting the Caribbean side of the country, versus the relatively dry side of the country where we were.
Beautiful coastal mountains along Costa Rica’s Pacific coast
A quiet morning by the pool preceded the day’s afternoon shore excursion to Pura Vida Gardens and Waterfalls.
Another place to shopOne of many selfies
The long drive was broken up by a stop at a crocodile viewing area. These sometimes large reptiles, numbering about 4,000, are protected in Costa Rica and can be found in three rivers.
Lots of crocodiles in Costa Rica
From there, the tour bus followed numerous switchbacks upward for almost 3,000 feet. We arrived at the gardens to find the temperature to be in the low 90s, humidity at about 85%, and a breeze providing almost no relief. The abundant flowering plant life was offset by the lack of birds and butterflies, though Crimson Macaws and a few species of butterflies were observed.
Gorgeous landscape atop the mountain
Crimson Macaw
About halfway down the mountain, the tour bus stopped at a shopping area selling indigenous products. The return to the ship barely preceded its departure. Dinner, a stage show, and music closed out the evening.
Costa Rica is an educated country with a literacy rate of 98 percent; interestingly, English and “tourism” are mandatory courses of study from the beginning grades thru college. Also, energy in the country is surprisingly 100 percent green!
The ship landed in Corinto, Nicaragua, at 7 AM and an early morning shore excursion meant an early breakfast. The ship was met with a live band and much fanfare.
Youngest of the dancing girls, dressed in classic Nicaraguan clothing
The bus departed for colonial Leon and the oldest botanical garden in Central America. The 12 hectare garden hosts over 1200 plant species and 80 species of birds, all of which are representative of a tropical dry forest. The one hour tour allowed visitors to walk around the garden on their own, and while there were some birds and butterflies, the Pacific breeze and poor choice of camera lens resulted in a poor photo shoot.
Termites
Ants
Old Leon has retained its colonial architecture of one-story houses with tile and wooden roofs. The tour included a visit to Leon’central Park, common to most Spanish colonial cities and towns, bordered by the La Asunción Basilica and Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and various markets. Icy cold Victoria beer, a Nicaraguan beer, was sold at one of the sidewalk cafes and beckoned me to taste.
Colonial architecture adjacent to the central plaza
The plaza was filled with outdoor shops and people
Couldn’t resist an ice cold Nicaraguan beer (quite tasty)
The return trip to the ship passed some of the 40-mile line of volcanoes along Nicaragua’s Pacific coast; two are currently active and gasses billowing from their tops were easily visible.
According to the guide, a former Sandinista rebel, Nicaragua has a very high literacy rate. There are some 100,00 autos, trucks, etc. in the country versus over 300,000 motorcycles. There were many small horse/pony drawn carts using the roadways. Nicaragua has a heavy dependency on Venezuela for its existence, but China is now investing very heavily in the country to take advantage of the country’s resources. A hybrid “democracy” is the current form of governance, though the country is now trying to emulate China with consolidation of power among all elements of government.
The ship was relatively quiet as many of the passengers were watching the Super Bowl, and no shows were being presented. We did listen to “Leo”, our favorite entertainer on the ship.
Haze shrouded the landscape as the Norwegian Gem slowly sailed into the shallow port of Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala, this Central American country’s largest ocean port. Guatemala was the first country to produce chocolate, is the jade capital of the world, and the origin of the Mayan culture. There are many volcanoes in Guatemala, and were visible from the shoreline as we sailed into harbor.
Our hangout on the ship
The smell of burning garbage slowly encapsulated the ship, common to all the third world countries In which I’ve been. The pier at which the ship docked was in an industrial port with no evidence of shops, stores, gardens, etc., only shipping related industry. We were bussed to a gated area just outside the port’s boundaries filled with shops selling hand-weaved goods, chocolate, and jade. I looked hard for birds and butterflies, but was rewarded only with a few lizards! Kay shopped, but only bought a handmade water bottle holder.
NOTE: We did not book any excursions in Guatemala because of safety and security concerns, especially for Americans. The more we travel abroad, the smaller the world becomes, a “global view” comes into focus, and the significance of other countries, particularly industrialized nations, comes into play compared to the relevance of the US related to world matters.
A day at sea provided a much needed break from shore activities. Kay was up early, dressed, and headed for the pool deck to “reserve “ a couple of lounges in the shade. She had had two cups of coffee and was eating breakfast on the aft deck where I joined her after filling an insulated cup with strong coffee, followed by a lite breakfast of mueslis and dried fruit. The warm breeze was refreshing—nothing like having coffee and breakfast outside.
Changing into swimsuits and armed with beach towels, we found the two prime “reserved” chaise lounges in a shaded area close to poolside filled with Pacific breezes. Reading and soaking in the hot tub filled our morning before a lite lunch, and then, nap time!
Kay at the hub of poolside activities
Where we spent most days on the ship
We joined a couple from Dallas, Don and Marianne, for dinner and visiting about trips, birds, butterflies, etc. The featured show tonight was Carole’s Kings, good but not up to their performance earlier in the week. Interestingly, each of the three young men had performed on Broadway. After dinner, we joined a crowded lounge for drinks and listening to Leo Jostol, a very talented singer and guitar player. He does everything from oldie goldies to jazz, and has attracted quite a following on this cruise.
We have met some very interesting people this past week. Americans are definitely in the minority, and there are few young people and even fewer children—the average age is reportedly 64 years. The largest segment of the cruise population is comprised of Asians, followed by Canadians, the US, UK, other Europeans, and Aussies. The vast majority of passengers have beverage packages and can really consume the alcohol; we don’t hold a candle. One must be patient as there are lots of lines, sauntering in the food and beverage lines, stopping and talking in doorways, aisles, and stair landings, abruptly stopping in the dining areas, etc. Kay makes sure the filter between my brain and mouth is in place before coming into contact with people! And, it’s quite loud and noisy—old people can’t hear.
Manzanilla, Mexico’s largest port city as we arrive at dawn
After arriving in Mexico’s largest port city, Manzanillo, just before dawn, we were up and on the aft deck for breakfast. Our early morning was to enable Kay to disembark for an 8:00 AM “shore excursion“ consisting of a tour of the city and its surrounding areas.
Beautiful southern Mexico coastline and beach
While Kay was touring, I escaped to the upper indoor lounge to send and read emails and Facebook, and work on photos and this blog. After several attempts to publish the blog, I gave up and resorting to posting the write-ups and accompanying photos on Facebook. From here internet becomes prohibitively expensive! After completing all this, an audio book provided the rest of the morning’s entertainment.
Manzanilla, at daybreak
A quick soak in the hot tub was followed by lounging on the deck in the warm breeze. Subsequent to Kay returning from the shore excursion, we had lunch and a brief afternoon nap. Dinner at the Orchid Garden, the complimentary Asian restaurant—best food yet—and the Flying Fingers of Stephen Kane, a really good pianist and the day’s featured show, were followed by lounge time listening to live music, ending another fine day.
Early risers again, before sunrise, and armed with strong coffee, the quiet of the forward lounge provided a great opportunity to work on the blog and “read” an audio book. Just before sunrise, we were off to the other end of the ship for breakfast outside. As Mexico’s western shoreline came into view, we were again treated to blowing and breaching whales.
We arrived in port about an hour early, but Kay and I opted to remain on the ship and enjoy a relatively quiet and peaceful day.
Puerto VallartaPuerto Vallarta
Fifteen minutes in the sun-shrouded hot tub was enough; the cooling wind off the ocean provided just the right amount of relief from the sunny day as we lounged in the shade by the pool.
Love the hat
The day went quickly, perhaps because of an afternoon nap. We left for dinner at the complimentary Asian restaurant at 5:30 PM in order to avoid the later crowd and make a 7 PM show; the restaurant was packed and there was a wait to be seated. The food was good. We left with 10 minutes to spare to make the show, but found it already underway at 6:50 pm. And then an internal alarm went off; we were supposed to turn the clock ahead last night. We had operated all day one hour behind schedule, but no adverse impacts as we made the 9 PM show. Oh, the joys and benefits of retirement! The show, Swing, was perhaps the best cruise production we’ve seen— both the dancing and singing were superb. Afterward, we sang a couple of songs at the karaoke bar before retiring for the evening.
Collection of trails and greenway quotes, terms, acronyms, tools as well as trail publications and presentations and 100s of photos from my bicycle and hiking adventures. .
This journal was begun several years ago, and reflects an accurate record of each day fished. Please enjoy it, and remember that fish are too valuable to be caught just once, and the places they live are too valuable to be mistreated.