After arriving in Mexico’s largest port city, Manzanillo, just before dawn, we were up and on the aft deck for breakfast. Our early morning was to enable Kay to disembark for an 8:00 AM “shore excursion“ consisting of a tour of the city and its surrounding areas.

While Kay was touring, I escaped to the upper indoor lounge to send and read emails and Facebook, and work on photos and this blog. After several attempts to publish the blog, I gave up and resorting to posting the write-ups and accompanying photos on Facebook. From here internet becomes prohibitively expensive! After completing all this, an audio book provided the rest of the morning’s entertainment.

A quick soak in the hot tub was followed by lounging on the deck in the warm breeze. Subsequent to Kay returning from the shore excursion, we had lunch and a brief afternoon nap. Dinner at the Orchid Garden, the complimentary Asian restaurant—best food yet—and the Flying Fingers of Stephen Kane, a really good pianist and the day’s featured show, were followed by lounge time listening to live music, ending another fine day.

Early risers again, before sunrise, and armed with strong coffee, the quiet of the forward  lounge provided a great opportunity to work on the blog and “read” an audio book. Just before sunrise, we were off to the other end of the ship for breakfast outside. As Mexico’s western shoreline came into view, we were again treated to blowing and breaching whales. 

We arrived in port about an hour early, but Kay and I opted to remain on the ship and enjoy a relatively quiet and peaceful day.

Fifteen minutes in the sun-shrouded hot tub was enough; the cooling wind off the ocean provided just the right amount of relief from the sunny day as we lounged in the shade by the pool. 

The day went quickly, perhaps because of an afternoon nap. We left for dinner at the complimentary Asian restaurant at 5:30 PM in order to avoid the later crowd and make a 7 PM show; the restaurant was packed and there was a wait to be seated. The food was good. We left with 10 minutes to spare to make the show, but found it already underway at 6:50 pm. And then an internal alarm went off; we were supposed to turn the clock ahead last night. We had operated all day one hour behind schedule, but no adverse impacts as we made the 9 PM show. Oh, the joys and benefits of retirement! The show, Swing, was perhaps the best cruise production we’ve seen— both the dancing and singing were superb. Afterward, we sang a couple of songs at the karaoke bar before retiring for the evening.

Up early and loaded with strong coffee, we went to a lounge in the front of the ship to watch the sun rise over the Baja Peninsula; what another beautiful day God had provided! As the morning wore on, we reversed direction towards the back of the ship and food finding a table on the open deck. While eating a lite breakfast, whales were observed blowing and breaching in the Cortez Sea. We sailed along the western shore of the Baja Peninsula until the terminus of the Peninsula came into view. As we entered the Gulf of California, a cell signal from Mexico pinged our phones.

The Norwegian Gem anchored in the bay and the first tenders transported  passengers to shore for excursions. Kay and I waited until after lunch to “tender” to shore where we walked around the much too commercialized area, stopping near a small “7-11” type shop for cheap beer (Ultra at $1.50 a can versus $9 + 20% gratuity on the Gem). After a long walk we caught the tender back to the ship for hot tub and sun time.

Dinner was at one of the complimentary restaurants, and just okay. A stand up comedian, Johnny Cardinale, performed the show tonight; Kay liked him, but I thought he was not too funny.

About mid-morning, we took our Norwegian-tagged luggage to a collection room and caught a pre-arranged shuttle to the ship. We were quickly checked in and boarded (thanks again, Dana).

We immediately headed to the dining room for lunch (no breakfast). The cabins were soon available, where we changed into swimsuits (we made sure they were in our ship carryons). And then it was off to the pool to begin almost three weeks of R&R. A “sail away” poolside party soon began and the music was great. Dinner followed a safety brief. A preview show wrapped up the day for us. As retirees, we so needed this “vacation”!

Monday was an all day sailing day, providing impetus for sleeping late. After awaking and breakfast, we attended an advanced bridge lecture by a bridge playing couple from Little Rock (small world), before the hot tub and pool called. A soak, sunbathing, and lite lunch preceded a long afternoon nap. Dinner was followed by a show featuring Carole’s Kings, a trio of guys from New York who performed a tribute to Carole King. When they sang in the preview performance Sunday evening, they were not great, but their performance was really good Monday evening.

We were ready to escape the cold (at least to us) and wet (40% more rain in 2018 than normal) of Arkansas. Our first real winter at home in 10 years has  proved better than expected so far, except we weren’t quite ready for the weather and soggy golf courses.

Up next on our life list was a cruise thru the Panama Canal, and this winter provided a perfect opportunity. Working with Dana at Vacation Valet in the Village, a 19-day Norwegian cruise from Los Angeles to New York was selected, as it provided 12 ports of call, excluding LA and NY. 

We left home two days early. Uncertain of the length of time to go through security (TSA was not getting paid because of government shutdown) early Saturday morning, we drove to Little Rock late Friday afternoon, staying at the Comfort Inn. There was no delay and we flew to LA via Dallas arriving just after noon—a day prior to sailing (previous cruises have taught us to arrive at the departure port a day early because of airline schedules and customs inspections).

We were met by Norwegian representatives and caught the arranged shuttle. Check-in at the hotel was uneventful (thank you Dana), and a restful afternoon and evening ensued. The window of our room overlooked the northern hills of LA.

Last night’s motel in Wytheville, VA, was clean, not terribly expensive, and quite adequate. It was also adjacent to a Cracker Barrel restaurant, one of our favorites when traveling—not because they are great, but because they are consistently good. Consequently, the motel’s tasteless “breakfast” was bypassed for our favorite “Breakfast Sampler” at Cracker Barrel.

Travel to the High Bridge Trail trailhead was diverted to tour Appomattox, where Robert E. Lee surrendered to U.S. Grant, effectively ending the Civil War. Considering the significance of the surrender, this national historic site was a bit underwhelming—sad.

House where Lee surrendered to Grant

From Appomattox, we traveled to the High Bridge Trail.  High Bridge Trail State Park

At the trailhead in Rice, VA

is a multi-use trail ideally suited for bicycling, hiking, and horseback riding. Its centerpiece is the High Bridge, which is more than 2,400 feet long and 160 feet above the Appomattox River. The bridge was built in 1853 as part of the South Side Railroad, and was the site of one of the last battles of the Civil War on April 6 and 7, 1865. The war ended two days later at Appomattox. Access to the trail was limited, resulting in our stop at the trailhead in Rice, VA.

Converted factory in Farmville, VA

This is the smoothest rail trail I’ve pedaled, allowing a quick trip to Farmville, VA, home of old converted factory high rises to high end furniture showrooms (we bought most of our furniture for the Norfork house here).

As I neared Farmville, a sluggishness in the ride was noticeable as it became increasingly difficult to pedal.

High Bridge Trail and restored depot, Farmville, VA

A glance at the rear tire revealed yet another flat. Fortunately a bike store was nearby, and while no mechanic was on duty, they allowed me to change the tire on their showroom floor. This stop proved fortuitous as they advised of a significant trail closure due to damages from Hurricane Michael.

Trail closure near Farmville, VA

Also fortuitous was meeting up with Kay a couple hours early in Farmville rather than Prospect, our original “meet up” point. She shuttled me to the trailhead at the south end of High Bridge, whereupon I quickly rode the near half mile length of the bridge and back.

Trailhead near Farmville, VA

High Bridge, from which the trail gets its name

From there it was off to Inn on the Avenues B&B, followed by dinner.

We awoke to our first frost of the year, in Abingdon, VA, having to defrost windows for the first time in years (avoided frosty windshields by wintering in south Texas). Today’s agenda included completing the Virginia Creeper Trail, driving to Fries, and riding a portion of the New River Trail. I opted to ride the lower portion of the trail, almost 16 miles, from Abingdon to Damascus; it was 39° at the trailhead, the lowest temperature at which I had ever ridden.

Trailhead parking in Abingdon, VA

A pretty viaduct along the trail

At about the 3 mile mark, pedaling became quite difficult; the back tire was nearly flat. Slowly, after removing a couple layers of clothes, the tube was changed, and the ride resumed.

A flat tire about 3 miles into the ride

Back in business with a new tube

The trail was pleasant enough, though much less scenic than the upper portion. It was slightly downhill the first half, slightly uphill the second half, and relatively smooth, but cold headwinds made pedaling a bit tough, and forced me to continually wipe watering eyes and blow a runny nose. There were several gates across the trail since much of this portion of the trail is on private land, much of which is used for grazing. After about two hours, and despite a flat tire, I pedaled into Damascus, having completed the Virginia Creeper Trail.

Several gates intersected this portion of the trail

Typical trail section

From Damascus, our trip took us to Fries, VA, to a trailhead of the New River Trail. New River Trail State Park is a 57.7-mile (92.9 km) rail trail and state park located entirely in southwest Virginia, extending from the trail’s northeastern terminus in Pulaski to its southern terminus in Galax, with a 5.5-mile (8.9 km) spur from Fries Junction on the main trail to Fries. Designated a National Recreation Trail, the linear follows 39 miles (63 km) of the New River, which is one of the five oldest rivers in the world.

New River Trail trailhead at Fries, VA

Because the trail followed the New River, I opted to ride downstream, thus downhill, and because the portion from Galax to Fries Junction was less scenic, I began in Fries.

The ride proved to be a bit strenuous because of headwinds and rough trail conditions. The trail was pocked marked by horse tracks, had a number of small fallen branches, and was surfaced with crushed limestone up to about 3 inches, all disguised by a light leaf covering. The New River was much larger than perceived, resembling the upper White River in both appearance and character. The almost constant roar of the river provided a bit of diversion from the cold wind and rough road.

The large fast flowing New River

Fries Junction

Fries Junction

Two dams were at trail side, and both looked worse for wear. Also notable was a short tunnel. Several walkers, cyclists, and horseback riders were on the trail.

One of two dams seen on the New River

Finally, a tunnel

I missed the pickup point at Shot Tower, riding to Foster Falls before turning around and riding back to meet Kay. I enjoyed the ride, but this trail is the least favorite of all ridden.

Cookeville, TN, was in the rearview mirror by 9:00 AM, and we were driving east towards Virginia. Crossing into EDST, another hour was taken away from our already shortened day. The goal today was to ride the Rail Trail Hall of Fame Virginia Creeper Trail. We arrived at Whitetop, VA, a small mountain town near the Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee border.

Whitetop Mountain Trailhead, Virginia Creeper Trail

Whitetop Mountain is part of Mount Rogers National Recreation Area

I rode south about 0.7 mile to the actual trail beginning at the North Carolina-Virginia state line before turning around and heading north and downhill towards Abingdon, Virginia.

Mile “0” of the Virginia Creeper Trail

With the constant downhill slope, little to no pedaling was required; however, it was slow going due to rough trail conditions and incredible scenery. Under a dense canopy of colorful trees, the trail generally followed a mountain stream rushing downhill among car-sized boulders. And yes, it was a bit cool, about 50°.

Beautiful scenery and Christmas tree farms abound along the trail

Downhill for 17 miles

Mountain stream adjacent to the trail most of the way

Leaves have begun to change colors

With all the stops, it became apparent that I would not be able to pedal and the entire 30+ miles before dark. However, all attempts to phone Kay to change the pickup point proved futile because of “no service” cell phone coverage. As I pulled into Damascus, Virginia, “Trail Town USA”, coverage resumed and a pickup was arranged. (Damascus, Virginia, a small town of about 8000 people in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Southwest Virginia is known as Trail Town USA, because seven nationally known trails intersect within its borders, including the famous Appalachian Trail. I have read several stories and books referring to Damascus as a resupply point for those hiking the Appalachian Trail, including AWOL on the Appalachian Trail by David Miller.

After a late start, our departure toward Richmond, VA, was further delayed because of low air pressure in the tires and the need to return an Amazon Prime package. As it turns out there’s not a full service UPS store anywhere to be found on the east side of Hot Springs Village. Consequently, we stopped in Benton to return the package before finally on the way uninterrupted.

Our destination for the day was Cookeville, Tennessee, where we met Lynn and Nick Constan, friends from working in New Orleans in the late 1970s. Nick is quite the craftsman and built much of the furniture in their house, and over the last several months built a fantastic lake boat. Lynn you’re still suffering a hip injury from a bicycle accident over a year ago, and is scheduled for yet another surgery in mid December. After a delicious dinner the all-too-short evening ended as we said goodbye for whoever knows how long. (It has been almost 40 years since I last saw them, and they had never met Kay!)

Nick, Lynn, and Donald