Today marks our last day in Jordan and Israel.  We packed last night, readying for our border crossing from Jordan to Israel, and the necessary security and customs clearances for our flight back to the US.  Despite it being our farewell day, we had a busy schedule, and our first stop was the largest of the Decapolis cities in the Near East, Jerash. 

Jerash, Jordan.  Dubbed the "Pompeii of the East," Jerash is a Greco-Roman ruined city located 80 miles north of Amman (though Jerash was never buried by a volcano). The impressive, beautifully preserved ruins of Jerash include places of worship and other buildings from the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and early Muslim periods.  Remains in the Greco-Roman Jerash include the Corinthium column; Hadrian‘s Arch; the circus/hippodrome; two large temples (dedicated to Zeus and Artemis); the unique large oval Forum which is surrounded by a fine colonnade; the long colonnaded main north-south street, Cardo Maximus; the Byzantine church of Saints Cosmas and Damian with its mosaic floor; a large south theater and smaller north theater; two baths, and a scattering of small temples; and an almost complete circuit of city walls.  Jerash was the home of Nicomachus of Gerasa (c. 60 – c. 120) who is known for his works Introduction to Arithmetic, The Manual of Harmonics, and The Theology of Numbers.  Recent excavations show that Jerash was already inhabited during the Bronze Age (3200 BC – 1200 BC).  The Emperor Hadrian visited Jerash in AD 129-130.  The triumphal arch (or Arch of Hadrian) was built to celebrate his visit.  Excavation and restoration of Jerash has been almost continuous since the 1920s.  We entered Jerash on the south side through Hadrian’s Arch and made our way to the Oval Forum or Oval Plaza which measures 90 X 80 meters.  From the Oval Forum, we climbed to the Temple of Zeus (162 AD). Another staircase led to the temple itself, which was surrounded by 15 meter high Corinthian columns.  From the Temple of Zeus, we walked to the large south theater.  Kay, Seig, and Janet began singing Amazing Grace, and was surprisingly accompanied by bagpipes and drums.  Then, to our surprise again, a number of Muslim teenage girls climbed on the stage and began doing a cultural dance to bagpipes and drums.  They moved down to the floor of the theater, and pulled members of our tour group into their circle.  It was a memorable, profound exchange of cultures, and for me, one of the most gratifying activities of the trip.  From the large theater, we reluctantly moved to the Propylaeum or gateway that led to the sacred precinct of the Temple of Artemis (150 AD). A monumental staircase, which once had high walls, leads up to a horseshoe-shaped terrace with the foundations of an open-air altar. A second staircase leads through a colonnade of 22 Corinthian columns and into the sacred precinct.  We descended the stairs to the Cardo Maximus, the main Roman road in Jerash. The Cardo Maximus was lined with a broad sidewalk and shops. It is still paved with its original stones and bears the ruts of chariot wheels, and ancient manholes accessing the underground sewage system which ran the full length of the street, into which rainwater was channeled through holes on the sides of the street.  The stones are laid at an angle in about 10-meter segments, interspersed with an approximate 1-meter wide construction joint.  The purpose of the stones being laid at an angle was to soften the chariot ride.  As we continued on the Cardo Maximus, we came to a large nymphaeum, or monumental fountain. It was constructed in 191 AD and was faced with marble. From there, we walked the Cardo Maximus back to the Oval Forum, then exited by the hippodrome where chariot races and sporting events were held. Chariot races were being held today, but we did not have an entrance pass, and were not allowed to take pictures.  We did see some Jordanian “Roman” soldiers who were participating in the races.  From there, we stopped at a Jordanian restaurant for lunch where Kay and I split a plate of lamb kabobs.

We traveled from Jerash through the Jordanian countryside for the border crossing between Jordan and Israel.  Along the way, we passed through several Jordanian towns, and saw entrenchments and military equipment aimed at the West Bank.  We changed buses and guides (our Israeli guide was about an hour late), and made our way to Tel Aviv, stopping for a farewell dinner at a local restaurant.  At Tel Aviv, we dropped off members of our group who were to catch a later plane, and arrived at the airport some 3 hours before the flight.  While it took some time, getting through Israeli customs and airport security was not a big issue.  We boarded our airplane for the 13-hour flight home. 

Photos of this trip may be seen at: https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink

Petra.  After a long 3 1/2 hour bus ride from Amman, we reached Petra of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade fame; it is mind blowing.  Our friend, Jeff, tried to tell us about Petra but words were not adequate.  Although much has been written about Petra, nothing really prepares you for this amazing place. It has to be seen to be believed.  Petra, the world wonder, is without a doubt Jordan’s most valuable treasure and greatest tourist attraction. It is a vast, unique city, carved into the sheer rock face by the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled here more than 2000 years ago, turning it into an important junction for the silk, spice and other trade routes,between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.  It is not permitted for motorized vehicles to enter the site, but horse-drawn chariots rattled through the gorge, bouncing on the cobblestone, and barely missing the hundreds of pedestrians.  Petra is half-built, half-carved into the rock, and is surrounded by mountains riddled with passages and gorges. It is one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.  We entered the “city” through the Siq, a narrow gorge, almost a  mile in length, all downhill, which is flanked on either side by soaring, 250+ feet high cliffs, reminding us of the slot canyons of northeastern Arizona. Just walking through the Siq is an experience in itself. The colors and formations of the rocks are dazzling.   As we reached the end of the Siq, we caught our first glimpse of the Treasury, and it almost took our breath away.  This is an awe-inspiring experience. A massive façade, about 100 feet wide and over 140 feet high, carved out of the sheer, dusky pink rock-face and dwarfing everything around it.  It was carved in the early 1st century as the tomb of an important Nabataean king and represents the engineering genius of these ancient people.  The Treasury is merely the first of the many wonders that make up Petra.  There are hundreds of elaborate rock-cut tombs with intricate carvings – unlike the houses, which were destroyed mostly by earthquakes, the tombs were carved to last throughout the afterlife and 500 have survived, empty but bewitching as you file past their dark openings. While grossly overshadowed by the Treasury, there also is a massive Nabataean-built, Roman-style theatre, which could seat 3,000 people. There are obelisks, temples, sacrificial altars and colonnaded streets.  Despite successive attempts by the Seleucid king Antigonus, the Roman emperor Pompey and Herod the Great to bring Petra under the control of their respective empires, Petra remained largely in Nabataean hands until around 100 AD, when the Romans took over. It was still inhabited during the Byzantine period, when the former Roman Empire moved its focus east to Constantinople, but declined in importance thereafter.  The Crusaders constructed a fort there in the 12th century, but soon withdrew, leaving Petra to the local people until the early 19th century, when it was rediscovered by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812.  After an all too brief visit of less than 3 hours, we began our arduous one mile trek uphill to the bus for the 3 1/2 hour drive back to the hotel.  If we are afforded an opportunity to visit Petra again, we’ll spend much more time exploring its many crevices and nuances.

Photos of this trip may be seen at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink

Enroute to Jordan.  We departed Jerusalem early in the morning, leaving the cool temperatures and 2600 feet altitude for the Judean Desert, and the Jordan River, which is the border between Israel and Jordan.  About 20-25 feet wide, the Jordan River is little more than a muddy stream, since much of its water, about 90 percent, has been removed upstream for use by Israel and Jordan.  The border crossing from Israel to Jordan was time consuming, but uneventful.  First, we went through Israel Customs, then Jordanian Customs.  Our luggage, and we, were scanned at each.  We changed buses, bus drivers, and guides, and were on our way to Jesus’ baptism site.  By the way, our guide was a Jordanian Catholic.
Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan, Jordan.  The site traditionally identified with Jesus’ baptism is east of Jericho in Jordan. It has been extensively excavated and developed since the 1994 peace treaty and there are now many ancient ruins and modern structures to see here.  Obviously, it is one of the most important recent discoveries in biblical archaeology. Excavations only began here in 1996, following Jordan’s peace treaty with Israel in 1994, but have already uncovered more than 20 churches, caves and baptismal pools dating from the Roman and Byzantine periods. Jesus was baptized by his cousin, John the Baptist, on the shores of the Jordan River. Here John identified Jesus as the Lamb of God, and a dove was seen to land on Jesus as he came up out of the water (Matthew 3).  He later returned to the site to teach (John 1:40-42). Enroute to the baptism site, we drove by an area associated with the ascension of the Prophet Elijah into heaven, which is commemorated at a hill called Tell Mar Elias. The baptism site is located in a desolate area of jungle like vegetation just off the Jordan River.  The bus parked, we exited, and most bought cold bottled water for our fairly long walk to the baptism site.  The air was thick and hot; the temperature was 102 degrees.  It is nearly the lowest point on earth, near the Dead Sea, at over 350 meters (over 1,100 feet) below sea level. The ground was dry and chalky and vegetation was sparse except on the banks of the river.  As we walked along the trail, we noted baptisms across the Jordan River on the Israeli side.  After five or ten minutes’ walking, the path leads into a clearing marked by a modern pool where the site itself had been tastefully developed. adjacent to the ruins of the 7th-century Church of John the Baptist.  Here you can see the original altar and mosaic floor, which was originally placed atop an arch to prevent flooding. The support pillars of the arch lie on the north side of the church, in the very spot they fell many centuries ago.
Mount Nebo.  Mount Nebo is a 1,000 meter (3,300 feet) high mountain located 6 miles northwest of Madaba in Jordan, opposite the northern end of the Dead Sea. According to ancient tradition, this is the mountain from which Moses saw the Promised Land before he died.  In the 4th century AD a sanctuary, mentioned by the pilgrim nun Egeria, was built on Mount Nebo to honor Moses, possibly on the site of an even older structure. The church was finished by 394 AD and had three east apses flanked by funerary chapels on the north and south sides.  In the 6th century, the church was enlarged and transformed into a basilica with a sacristy and new baptistery (whose surviving floor mosaics date from 530 AD). Soon the church was the heart of a large monastery and pilgrimage center that would thrive for nearly six centuries.  The site was abandoned by 1564 and remained mostly neglected for several centuries more. Finally, in 1993, the site was purchased by the Franciscans, who excavated and restored the area. On March 19, 2000, Pope John Paul II visited the site during his pilgrimage to the Holy Land, planting an olive tree next to the Byzantine chapel for peace.  We were unable to visit inside the church because the roof had begun to cave in, and massive renovation was underway. 
Mosaic Workshop.  Not far from Mount Nebo, near Madaba, just south of Amman, is a workshop where mosaics are made, and a large display area where they are sold, together with textiles and other craftwork. We were given a short demonstration of how mosaics are made nowadays, and an explanation of the amount of work that went into the most detailed of them (presumably to justify the rather high prices, compared to the poorer quality mosaics available elsewhere). A high proportion of disabled people were employed in the workshop.  Most of the time spent at this location was in the show room, where Jordanian salesmen and women pushed their Jordanian products quick robustly.  We managed to escape without buying any of the beautiful, but expensive, goods.
Amman.  From Mount Nebo, we drove to Amman, Jordan, with elevations ranging to over 3,600 feet, where we were greeted to 80 degree weather.  Amman is the capital and largest city of Jordan. It is the area’s political, cultural and commercial center and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The city has a population of over 2.8 million people.  As we entered the hotel, both we and our luggage had to undergo security screening.  Our room was modern and quite nice, perhaps the best of the trip. 
We went to bed early as we had had a long day of traveling by bus, made a border crossing as we changed countries, and changed climate zones; my cold is finally breaking, but Kay is beginning to sneeze and cough.  This does not bode well.  Tomorrow is Petra.

Photos of this trip may be seen at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink

The Garden Tomb.  The Garden Tomb is an alternative to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as the actual site of Jesus’ burial in Jerusalem. It was discovered in 1867 and is especially popular with Protestants as a place of devotion.  In the 19th century, a number of scholars disputed the identification of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre with the actual site of Jesus’s crucifixion and burial. In1842, Otto Thenius proposed that a rocky outcrop outside the walls was Calvary (Golgotha), the place of the skull.  The Garden Tomb itself was discovered in 1867, and was soon identified as the burial place of Jesus, mainly because of its location in the area that had been identified as Calvary. Another factor in its favor was the recent discovery the tombstone of the deacon Nonnus in the nearby Church of St. Stephen, which mentioned the Holy Sepulchre.  Since that time, some Protestant piety has encouraged this identification, although the wardens of the property (The Garden Tomb Association) stress that it is the resurrection of Jesus, not the issue of finding the exact spot of his burial, that is important.  Inside of the tomb are the partial remains of a burial bench. The date of the tomb is not certain, but it may, in fact, date to the late Old Testament era, and thus would not have been a “new tomb” (Matthew 27:60; John 19:41) at the time of the crucifixion.  We thoroughly enjoyed our visit here, and especially liked having Holy Communion in the garden, with accompanying devotional and songs.  It was quite a moving and contemplative experience.
Kibbutz Ramat Rachel. Our guide took us to Kibbutz Ramat Rachel for lunch, but we were a bit early.  As a surprise, and somewhat of a joke, we renewed exchanging our wedding vows at a site overlooking Jerusalem, before the great lunch.  Kibbutz Ramat Rachel is situated on a hilltop overlooking the magnificent panorama of Jerusalem’s Old City, the Dead Sea, and the Judean Hills.
Israel Museum.  The Israel Museum in Jerusalem was founded in 1965 as Israel‘s national museum. It is situated on a hill in the Givat Ram neighborhood of Jerusalem, near the Knesset, the Israeli Supreme Court, and the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. The Museum has extensive collections of biblical archaeology, Judaica, ethnography, fine art, artifacts from Africa, North and South America, Oceania and the Far East, rare manuscripts, ancient glass and sculpture.  Many of its benefactors are American Jews from New York, New York.  One of the recent additions to the Museum is the Second Temple Era model of Jerusalem. This incredible model reconstructs the topography and architectural character of the city as it was prior to 66 AD, the year in which the Great Revolt against the Romans erupted, leading to the eventual destruction of the city and the Temple. It was one of the most educations parts of our Jerusalem tour.  Originally constructed on the grounds of Jerusalem’s Holyland Hotel, the model, which includes a replica of the Herod’s Temple, is now a permanent feature of the Museum’s 20-acre campus, adjacent to the Shrine of the Book.  Regrettably, we have no pictures of the the Shrine of the Book.  It is a uniquely designed building on the museum campus, houses the Dead Sea Scrolls discovered 1947–56 in 11 caves in and around the Wadi Qumran, and artifacts discovered at Masada.  The shrine is built as a white dome, covering a structure placed two-thirds below the ground. The dome is reflected in a pool of water that surrounds it. Across from the white dome is a black basalt wall.  The colors and shapes of the building are based on the imagery of the Scroll of the War of the Sons of Light Against the Sons of Darkness, whereas the white dome symbolizes the Sons of Light and the black wall symbolizes the Sons of Darkness. The interior of the shrine was designed to depict the environment in which the scrolls were found.  There is also a permanent display on life in the Qumran, where the scrolls were written. The entire structure was designed to resemble a pot in which the scrolls were found.  As the fragility of the scrolls makes it impossible to display all on a continuous basis, a system of rotation is used. After a scroll has been exhibited for 3–6 months, it is removed from its showcase and placed temporarily in a special storeroom, where it “rests” from exposure. While no photographs were allowed, we were able to view a continuous scroll containing the Book of Isaiah.  After viewing the Dead Sea scrolls, I sat in a coffee shop recuperating from the upper respiratory infection while Kay and most of the others toured a wing containing a large collection of paintings representing a wide range of periods, styles, subjects and regions of origin. Painters in the collection include such international figures as Rembrandt and Camille Pissarro as well as such Israeli and Jewish artists as Abel Pann and Marc Chagall. Should we ever visit Jerusalem again, the museum is a place at which we’d like to spend considerable more time.  Sculptures on the grounds were amazing, including Rodin, and a huge apple core.
Folk Festival at the YMCA.  We bought tickets to a folk festival at the Jerusalem YMCA featuring song and dance, and other cultural activities of Jerusalem and Israel.  I opted to stay in the hotel, but Kay attended.

Photos of this trip may be seen at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink 

City of David.  The story of the City of David began over 3,000 years ago, when King David left the city of Hebron for a small hilltop city known as Jerusalem, establishing it as the unified capital of the tribes of Israel. Years later, David’s son, King Solomon, built the First Temple next to the City of David on top of Mount Moriah, the site of the binding of Isaac, and with it, this hilltop became one of the most important sites in the world. Today, the story of the City of David continues.  Deep underground, the City of David is revealing some of the most exciting archeological finds of the ancient world. While above ground, the city is a vibrant center of activity with a visitor’s center that welcomes visitors for an exciting tour to the site where much of the Bible was written.  The tour of the City of David begins with a breathtaking observation point overlooking Biblical Jerusalem which sends visitors 3,800 years back in time to the days of Abraham, when the first foundations of the city were laid.  As one moves through the site, one comes in contact with archaeological excavations and thrilling biblical finds that span thousands of years of history including both First and Second Temple Jerusalem. The tour continues underground to the Gihon Spring, the major water source of Jerusalem for over 1,000 years. After walking down a dry tunnel, about half our group trekked through knee deep water in King Hezekiah’s 2,700 year old water tunnel, one of the wonders of early engineering. Continuing to the Shiloah Pool, the major water drawing source in biblical times, one reaches the Herodian Road, the ancient thoroughfare that led pilgrims north to the Temple.  We attempted to depart the area near the valley floor, but the exit gate had been locked because, according to our guide, Palestinians were paying children to throw rocks at the tourists.  Consequently, we walked up the long, steep hill to meet our bus.  I was feeling terribly bad from the upper respiratory infection at this point and left the tour, returning to the hotel for bed rest.
Tomb of David  The site, located on Mount Zion, is the traditional site of the tomb of King David, and one of the most holiest places for Jews, Christians and Muslims. It is one of the few sites in the world that is shared by the 3 religions.

Bethany.  Bethany is a Muslim and Christian Arab village of about 3,600 people on the southeast slopes of the Mount of Olives, Jerusalem. Bethany was the home of the Lazarus, Mary and Martha and the setting for a number of New Testament events.  The Tomb of Lazarus in Bethany has long been venerated by Christians and Muslims alike, and a modern church dedicated to the resurrected saint stands on the site of much older ones.  Bethany was the home of Lazarus, whom Jesus raised from the dead (John 11:38-44), and his sisters Mary and Martha. Jesus often stayed in their home.  The modern entrance to the Tomb of Lazarus is accessed by 24 very uneven stone steps. This probably was a rock-cut tomb, but very little of its original form remains. The rock probably collapsed under the weight of the large Crusader church built above it.  The original blocked entrance can be seen in the east wall of the antechamber; this alignment suggests the tomb predates the Byzantine churches and may well be from the time of Lazarus.  Even further up the hill is a modern Greek Orthodox church that incorporates a wall of the Crusader church built over the tomb. Nearby are substantial ruins that belong to the Orthodox Patriarchate and are traditionally identified as the House of Simon the Leper (where Jesus was anointed) or the House of Lazarus. Jesus was anointed at the home of Simon the Leper in Bethany (Mark 14:3) and returned to Bethany after his triumphal entry into Jerusalem (Mark 11:11). According to Luke 24:50, Jesus ascended into heaven near Bethany (commemorated at the Chapel of the Ascension). The remains of a tower belong to the Crusader monastery (1144 AD).
The forecourt of the Franciscan Church of St. Lazarus stands over the west end of the older churches, from which parts of the original mosaic floor are preserved. The west wall of the forecourt contains the west facade of the 6th-century basilica, with three doorways. The cruciform-plan church stands over the east end of the older churches. Trapdoors in the floor just inside reveal parts of the apse of the 4th-century church (the Lazarium), which was shorter than the 6th-century church. The modern church bears a mosaic on its facade depicting Mary, Martha and Lazarus. The interior is decorated with polished stone and mosaics.  Just up the hill on the left is the 16th-century Mosque of al-Uzair. The courtyard is in the Byzantine church atrium and the mosque is built in the vault that formerly supported the west end of the 12th-century church.
House of Caiaphas  The fabulous Saint Peter in-Gallicantu Church is built in the slopes of Mount Zion. According to tradition, this was the place of the palace of high priest Caiaphas. Its name is given after the story of Peter’s triple denial of Christ and the cock crowing twice.  Notable about the church is the rooster weather vane.

Photos of this trip may be seen at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink

Today, we are touring the Dead Sea area and the Judean Desert.  We entered a tunnel near the Mount of Olives and a few hundred feet later exited the tunnel on the edge of the Judean Desert.  The distance from Jerusalem to the Dead Sea is not more than 20 miles and the elevation drops from about 2600 at the Mount of Olives to about 1388 feet below sea level at the surface of the Dead Sea.
Masada.  Our first stop of the day was Masada, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Masada is the name for a site of ancient palaces and fortifications in the South District of Israel on top of an isolated rock plateau on the eastern edge of the Judean Desert overlooking the Dead Sea.  We arrived at the bottom, and took a fully-loaded cable car to the top of the mountain rather than hike the long and difficult snake path, winding up the side of the mountain.  The ruins were amazing.  Inside the synagogue, an ostracon bearing the inscription me’aser cohen (tithe for the priest) was found, as were fragments of two scrolls; parts of Deuteronomy 33-34 and parts of Ezekiel 35-38 (including the vision of the “dry bones”), found hidden in pits dug under the floor of a small room built inside the synagogue. In other locations fragments were found of the books of Genesis, Leviticus, Psalms, and Sirach, as well as of the Songs of the Sabbath Sacrifice.  After the First Jewish-Roman War, a siege of the fortress by troops of the Roman Empire led to the mass suicide of the Sicarii rebels.  Herod the Great fortified Masada between 37 and 31 BC as a refuge for himself in the event of a revolt. In 66 AD, at the beginning of the First Jewish-Roman War against the Roman Empire, a group of Jewish extremists called the Sicarii overcame the Roman garrison of Masada. After the destruction of the Second Temple, additional members of the Sicarii and their families fled Jerusalem and settled on the mountaintop, using it as a base for harassing the Romans.  The Sicarii were an extremist splinter group of the Zealots who were equally antagonistic to both Romans and other Jewish groups. The Zealots, in contrast to the Sicarii, carried the main burden of the rebellion, which opposed Roman rule of Judea.  The Sicarii on Masada were  joined by additional Sicarii and their families that were expelled from Jerusalem by the Jewish population with whom the Sicarii were in conflict shortly before the destruction of Jerusalem and the Second Temple.  In 72 AD, the Roman governor of Judea, Lucius Flavius Silva, laid siege to Masada. The Roman legion, with several camps in the area, surrounded Masada and built a circumvallation wall and then a siege embankment, shown in the photograph, against the western face of the plateau, moving thousands of tons of stones and beaten earth to do so.  The rampart was complete in the spring of 73 AD, after probably two to three months of siege, allowing the Romans to finally breach the wall of the fortress with a battering ram. When they entered the fortress, however, the Romans discovered that its 960 inhabitants had set all the buildings but the food storerooms ablaze and committed mass suicide.
En Gedi Nature Reserve.  Our next stop was the En Gedi Nature Reserve.  En Gedi is one of the most important reserves in Israel. The park is situated on the eastern border of the Judean Desert, on the Dead Sea coast. The elevation of the land ranges from the level of the Dead Sea at 423 meters (1,388 ft) below sea level to the plateau of the Judean Desert at 200 meters above sea level.  En Gedi Nature Reserve includes two spring-fed streams with flowing water year-round.  We were at En Gedi only briefly, long enough for short, one-mile hike to the first water falls, then returning to the bus for our next stop.
Qumran.  After departing En Gedi, we drove to Qumran, one of my most anticipated sites. Qumran is an archaeological site in the West Bank. It is located on a dry plateau about a mile inland from the northwestern shore of the Dead Sea, near the Israeli settlement and kibbutz of Kalia. The Hellenistic period settlement was constructed during the reign of John Hyrcanus, 134-104 BC or somewhat later, and was occupied most of the time until it was destroyed by the Romans in 68 AD or shortly after. It is best known as the settlement nearest to the caves in which the Dead Sea Scrolls were hidden, caves in the sheer desert cliffs and beneath, in the marl terrace.  Since the discovery from 1947 to 1956 of nearly 900 scrolls in various conditions, mostly written on parchment, with others on papyrus, extensive excavations of the settlement have been undertaken. Cisterns, Jewish ritual baths, and cemeteries have been found, along with a dining or assembly room and debris from an upper story alleged by some to have been a scriptorium as well as pottery kilns and a tower. 
Dead Sea.  About 3 kilometers (2 miles) north of Qumran, we stopped for a swim in the Dead Sea at Kalia
Judean Wilderness and the Jericho Road.  Because of its lack of water and good routes, the Judean Wilderness has been mostly uninhabited throughout history. Consequently it was an ideal place for those seeking refuge from enemies or retreat from the world. When on the run from King Saul, David hid in various places in the Judean Wilderness. John the Baptist preached here, and it seems likely that this was the wilderness where Jesus was tempted. Herod the Great built two fortresses in the Judean Wilderness (Herodium and Masada) for protection should his people ever revolt against him.  From our vantage point atop a hill, we could see the Jericho Road, Jordan, and the Dead Sea.  As was the case at most stops, we were bombarded with adults and children selling souvenirs.  In this particular location, most of the sales people were bedouin.  Kay bought a desert headdress and some other small things from one of the bedouins.
Here Comes a Cold.  For the last few days, I’ve been feeling like a cold was at hand.  I began sneezing before we left the US, and was okay for the first couple of days.  Then, at Tel Dan Nature Reserve, pollen and cottonwood “balls” infiltrated the air.  Today, I’m beginning to feel not so good.

Photos of this trip may be seen at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink

First happy Mother’s Day to Kay, and other mothers the world over.
As Christians our day was both a sad one and a glad one—sad because we walked the Via Dolorosa, the way of the cross, and thought about the suffering Jesus did for us, and glad for the same reason. We began by entering old Jerusalem through the St. Stephen’s gate, also known as the Lions gate.
Pool of Bethesda.  After entering into old Jerusalem, we walked to the site of the pool of Bethesda; it’s not what we had imagined it to be. The Pool of Bethesda is believed to be the site where Jesus healed a paralytic (John 5:1-15).  We enjoyed a wonderful Sunday morning service in a small garden adjacent to the Pool of Bethesda. Our service included Scripture readings, a brief devotion, and were anointing with oil for healing—both ourselves and loved ones for whom we had asked for prayers.  It was a moving service.
Church of Saint Anne.  Our Sunday morning service was followed by another service at the church of St. Anne, a beautiful 12th-century Crusader church, erected over the traditional site of the birthplace of Anne (Hannah), the mother of Mary. It is an excellent example of Romanesque architecture.  St. Anne’s Church is located in the Muslim Quarter, near the Lion’s Gate.  St. Anne’s Church was built between 1131 and 1138 to replace a previous Byzantine church. Shortly after its construction, it was enlarged by moving the facade forward by several meters.  In 1192, Saladin turned the church into a Muslim theological school, which is commemorated in an inscription above the church’s entrance. Eventually abandoned, the church fell into ruin until the Ottomans donated it to France in 1856. It was subsequently restored, but most of what remains today is original.  Saint Anne’s acoustics, designed for Gregorian chant, are so perfect that the church is virtually a musical instrument to be played by the human voice, supposedly with a 12 second reverberation. The church’s acoustics are most amazing when used by a soprano or a tenor solo voice.  Kay sang an awesome rendition of Amazing Grace, and everyone was moved, including Father Michael, overseer of the church, who gave Kay a “5 Stars” rating.
As we left the Church of Saint Anne, we walked the streets of Old Jerusalem.  The Palestinian streets were quite interesting.  Families who had been on pilgrimage identified their houses with colored doors and announcements. Though the streets are narrow, kids, as well as adults, use them for transporting goods, transportation, and even carrying their trash away.
Via Dolorosa.  The Via Dolorosa, ” way of the cross” is the most sacred route known to Christians. The route of the Via Dolorosa begins near the Lions’ Gate in the Muslim Quarter and ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the Christian Quarter, covering 500 meters and incorporating 14 Stations of the Cross.  Each of the 14 Stations of the Cross along the Via Dolorosa is marked with a plaque, but these small signs can be difficult to spot.  It begins where Jesus was tried and follows his path carrying the cross to Golgotha, the place of His crucifixion. According to Roman Catholic tradition, there are 14 stations of the cross along the Via Dolorosa.  While we did not see every one of these we did see most. Walking the Via Dolorosa today was physically difficult and arduous; we can’t begin to imagine how Jesus suffered carrying the cross, while being constantly beaten.
NOTE:  Over the centuries the route has changed many times, based on world politics, church splits, etc.  For most pilgrims, however, the exact location of each event along the Via Dolorosa is of little importance; the pilgrimage has great meaning due to its proximity to the original events and the reflection upon them along the way.
Franciscan Chapel of the Flagellation and Chapel of Condemnation.  As we began walking the Via Dolorosa, our first stop was the Chapel of Flagellation and Chapel of Condemnation; these commemorate the sites where Jesus took up the cross.  Vendors are located in many places along the Via Dolorosa.
Along the Via Dolorosa.  Along the way we saw sites commemorating where Jesus fell for the first time, where He met his mother, Mary, and where the Cyrenean helped Him carry the cross. The streets were crowded, with many locals and a myriad of tourists. We also saw sites commemorating the veil of Veronica, and where Jesus falls the second time. We also got our first up close look at one of the domes of the Church of the Sepulchre.  As we continued walking we saw the site commemorating where Jesus fell the third time, then an ancient African church, and the site commemorating where Jesus was stripped of his clothes. 

Church of the Sepulchre.  Many “faiths” have chapels and alters in the Church of the Sepulcher, including the Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Ethiopian, among others.  However, keys to the Church of the Sepulchre remain with the Palestinians.  We entered the door of the church near the site commemorating where Jesus was stripped of his garments. We walked past Calvary, where Jesus was nailed to the cross, and where He died on the cross. We were able to touch the stone thought to be where His body was prepared for burial. Nothing remains of this traditional burial site, as people, over the centuries, vandalized the site and removed pieces for their religious uses. This ended our journey along the Via Dolorosa. Having just celebrated the Advent season, Lent, and Holy week certainly heightened our awareness of Christ’s journey that day, but nothing compared to actually walking the road.
The Jewish Portion of Old Jerusalem.  We stopped for lunch and some shopping before we left the Palestinian part of old Jerusalem. We walked through numerous meat markets, and the stench of butcher shops, on our way to the Jewish part of old Jerusalem. Whether it has to do with age, or culture, the Jewish portion was much cleaner; it is only some 60+ years old though it lies within the ancient city of Old Jerusalem and still uses much of the structure of the old city. Israel has done much in the way of archaeological excavation, preservation, and restoration.  Old Jerusalem dates back some 5000 years beginning with the Canaanites, with many civilizations, largely built one on top of the other, up to the modern day State of Israel. We saw of the city of David which was located on a hill below the Temple back. We spent considerable time around the site of the Temple Mount, also known as Mount Mariah and Mount Zion.  The Temple Mount was the site of temples of Solomon, Zerubbabel, and Herod.  The Muslims consider it a holy place as they believe Mohammed went to heaven from this spot and constructed the Dome of the Rock to memorialize this.  We “toured” remnants of an ancient street, an ancient wall that surrounded the city, and the walls, steps, and remains of other structures that led to the temple. Jesus traveled some of these same roads and walked up some of the same steps. From within the Old Jerusalem were several views of the Mount of Olives.
The Wailing Wall.  The Western Wall (Ha-Kotel Ha-Ma’aravi) in Jerusalem is the holiest of Jewish sites, sacred because it is a remnant of the Herodian retaining wall that once enclosed and supported the Second Temple. It has also been called the “Wailing Wall” by European observers because for centuries Jews have gathered here to lament the loss of their temple.  The Western Wall was built by King Herod in 20 BC during his expansion of the Temple enclosure, and is part of a retaining wall that enclosed the western part of Temple Mount. According to the Roman-Jewish historian Josephus, construction of the walls took 11 years, during which time it rained in Jerusalem only at night so as not to interfere with the workers’ progress.  In 70 AD, the Romans destroyed Jerusalem and its Temple. During the Ottoman Period (beginning in the 16th century), the wall became the Jews’ chief place of pilgrimage, where they came to lament the destruction of the Temple.  For centuries, the Western Wall was located in a narrow alley just 12 feet wide that could accommodate only a few hundred densely packed worshipers. But in1967, immediately after the Six Day War, Israelis leveled the neighboring Arab district to create the Western Wall Plaza, which can accommodate tens of thousands of pilgrims.  At the same time, the Israelis made the wall about 6 1/2 feet higher by digging down and exposing two more tiers of ashlars (squared stones) from the Temple Plaza’s retaining wall that had been buried by accumulated debris for centuries.  The Western Wall Plaza, the large open area that faces the Western Wall, functions as an open-air synagogue that can accommodate tens of thousands of worshipers. Prayers take place here day and night, and special services are held here as well.  While here we saw Israeli service men and women rehearsing for their annual memorial day celebration.  Today, Israel remembers its fallen soldiers, and the streets were filled with uniformed service men and women readying themselves for a national evening of celebration. Tomorrow is Israel’s Independence Day and Jerusalem will be the center of celebration. This is an interesting time to visit Israel.
After a full day, we returned to the hotel for some much-needed rest and relaxation.

Photos of this trip may be seen at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink

We both slept really well last night, too well in fact.  What we didn’t realize was that our telephone was dead, so we did not receive a wakeup call.  I woke up at 7:30 AM, noted the time, and woke Kay to see if my watch was correct; it was.  Our tour routine was for the guide to arrange wakeup calls for everyone at 6 AM, breakfast, then departure at 7:30 AM.  After hurriedly dressing and throwing things into the daypack, I rushed downstairs to find everyone else waiting for us for a 7:30 AM departure.  I explained the situation, and our guide rushed off to get the phone fixed, and find us coffee and pastry.  Lesson learned:  don’t trust wakeup calls.
We drove towards Bethlehem, but stopped short to let our guide off the bus; he holds an Israeli passport, and the Israeli government will not assure his safety in Bethlehem.  Bethlehem is under Palestinian control, and security is provided by Palestinian authorities.  We were surprised to find that Bethlehem was in the ‘West Bank’ area (formerly controlled by Jordan, and now controlled by Palestine).  We crossed from West Jerusalem through a wall/gate not too dissimilar to the Berlin Wall and entered East Jerusalem also controlled by the Palestinians before traveling less than 30 minutes to Bethlehem.  The wall was built in 2003 because of numerous suicide bombings of Israelis.  After passing through the checkpoint, we picked up our Palestinian Christian guide, who is not allowed in Jerusalem.  He told us he is basically a prisoner within the walled-in city.   Bethlehem is a modern Palestinian city with a population of 80,000, only a few hundred people lived here in Jesus’ time.  About 25% of the current population is Palestinian Christian, and the remainder Muslim.  At the time of Israeli takeover, about half of the population was Palestinian Christian, but many young adults have moved out because of the severe restrictions of their movement in other parts of Israel; once they move out, they are never allowed back in.
Bethlehem.  Our first stop was at a Palestinian Christian store for olive wood gifts, jewelry, etc.  Street vendors awaited us right outside the door with scarves, bags, beads, and even musical camels. 
As we continued in Bethlehem, we waited in line after line for viewing items in the Church of the Nativity.  This old church is visited by millions of people, and has been modernized over the years; the Crusaders installed a higher ceiling and raised the roof—wooden timber trusses—to protect the mosaic floors and marble columns painted with scenes from Christ’s life.  The inside of the church was dark and many of the features were stained from the use of olive oil lanterns. The pilgrims were lined up to go under the the sanctuary/altar area to a grotto area where a hand-sized rock was available to touch that indicated where it was believed that Jesus was born.  Much of the ruins are protected because previous visitors broke pieces off as mementos for their use in worshipping.
The first evidence of a cave in Bethlehem being venerated as Christ’s birthplace is in the writings of Justin Martyr around 160 AD. The tradition is also attested by Origen and Eusebius in the 3rd century.  In 326, Constantine and his mother St. Helena commissioned a church to be built over the cave. This first church, dedicated on May 31, 339, had an octagonal floor plan and was placed directly above the cave. In the center, a 4-meter-wide hole surrounded by a railing provided a view of the cave. Portions of the floor mosaic survive from this period. St. Jerome lived and worked in Bethlehem from 384 AD, and he was buried in a cave beneath the Church of the Nativity.  The Constantinian church was destroyed by Justinian in 530 AD, who built the much larger church that remains today. The Persians spared it during their invasion in 614 AD because, according to legend, they were impressed by a representation of the Magi — fellow Persians — that decorated the building. This was quoted at a 9th-century synod in Jerusalem to show the utility of religious images.  Muslims prevented the application of Hakim’s decree (1009) ordering the destruction of Christian monuments because, since the time of Omar (639), they had been permitted to use the south transept for worship.  The Crusaders took Jerusalem on 6 June 1009. Baldwin I and II were crowned there, and in an impressive display of tolerance the Franks and Byzantines cooperated in fully redecorating the interior (1165-69). A Greek inscription in the north transept records this event.  The Church of the Nativity was much neglected in the Mamluk and Ottoman periods, but not destroyed. Much of the church’s marble was looted by the Ottomans and now adorns the Temple Mount in Jerusalem. An earthquake in 1834 and a fire in 1869 destroyed the furnishings of the cave, but the church again survived.  In 1847, the theft of the silver star marking the exact site of the Nativity was an ostensible factor in the international crisis over the Holy Places that ultimately led to the Crimean War (1854–56).  In 1852, shared custody of the church was granted to the Roman Catholic, Armenian and Greek Orthodox churches. The Greeks care for the Grotto of the Nativity.
Mount of Olives.  After departing Bethlehem, we stopped atop the Mount of Olives where views of Jerusalem were breathtaking.  Most of the Holy places in Jerusalem were visible from this location, and we could only imagine what lay ahead.  Immediately in our foreground was a huge cemetery; from the 3rd millennium BC until the present, this 2900-foot hill has served as one of the main burial grounds for the city.  Separated from the Eastern Hill (the Temple Mount and the City of David) by the Kidron Valley, the Mount of Olives has always been an important feature in Jerusalem’s landscape.  The two-mile long ridge has three summits each of which has a tower built on it.

Church of All Nations (Basilica of the Agony).  The Church of All Nations, officially named the Basilica of the Agony, is located at the foot of the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem next to the Garden of Gethsemane. It enshrines a section of bedrock in the Garden of Gethsemane that is believed to be where Jesus prayed on the night of his arrest (Matthew 26:36).  The Basilica of the Agony was built from 1919 to 1924 using funds from 12 different countries, which gave it its common name, Church of All Nations. The domed roof, thick pillars, and floor mosaic give the church a Byzantine appearance. The architect of the building was Antonio Barluzzi, who also designed the nearby Dominus Flevit Church.  The symbols of each country that contributed to the church are incorporated into the inlaid gold ceilings of each of 12 cupolas. The 12 cupolas rest on six monolithic pillars. The front of the church features a colorful façade supported by a row of pillars. Themodern mosaic above the entrance depicts Christ as the link between God and humanity.  The Church of All Nations is run by the Franciscans, but an open altar in the garden is used by the Anglican community on Maundy Thursday (the day before Good Friday).  The Church of All Nations lies on the foundations of two earlier churches: a 12th-century Crusader chapel abandoned in 1345 and a 4th-century Byzantine basilica, destroyed by an earthquake in 746.
Dominus Flevit Church.  Built in 1955 to commemorate the Lord’s weeping over Jerusalem, Dominus Flevit features a beautiful view of the city through its distinct chapel window.  Excavations during construction of the church uncovered a number of ossuaries (bone boxes) from the time of Jesus with numerous inscriptions.

Garden of Gethsamane.  Early Christian pilgrims located the Garden of Gethsemane at the bottom of the slope of the Mount of Olives opposite the Temple Mount.  Byzantine, Crusader and a modern church were built successively on the site where it is believed that Jesus prayed to the Father hours before his crucifixion.  Adjacent to the Church of All Nations is an ancient olive garden.  Olive trees do not have rings and so their age can not be precisely determined, but scholars estimate their age to anywhere between one and two thousand years old.

Photos of this trip may be seen at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/DunnGoneTravels/IsraelAndJordan2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCIL-g8GBjtb-Lw&feat=directlink

Bet She’an National Park.  Bet She’an is a wonderful Israeli National Park in the northern Jordan Valley, and includes the ruins of the ancient city, Bet She’an-Scythopolis, and the small mountain known as Tel Bet She’an (tel means hill of many layers).  Bet She’an guarded the eastern entrance to the Jezreel Valley.  Archaeological excavations reveal that the site has been occupied since the 14th century BC, including the Canaanites with Egyptian rule—six Egyptian temples have been discovered here; the Philistines who displayed the bodies of Saul and his sons on the city walls; King David’s rule; King Solomon’s reign; Assyria; Greece; the Hasmoneans; the Roman Empire whose population here consisted of pagans, Jews, and Samaritans; the Byzantine Empire in which the city became mostly Christian; the Arabian Empire; the Crusaders; the Turks; and finally the modern state of Israel.  During the period covered by the New Testament, Scythopolis was the major city of the Decapolis. The Gospels record that Jesus went through this region (Mark 7:31). Only about 10 percent of the 400 acres has been excavated, but the ruins displayed a magnificent city. Visible are portions of the theater, bathhouse, public toilets, other public buildings, colonnaded street, amphitheater, and other ruins from the Roman and Byzantine periods. The city was complete with its own water and septic systems, and even included an underground tunnel providing a shortcut for residents to get from one area to another. It was obviously a very lavish and affluent city.

During the Late Bronze Age (16th–12th centuries BC), the Egyptians made Bet She’an the center of their rule over Canaan. According to the Bible, the Israelite tribes were unable to capture Canaanite Bet She’an. After a battle at nearby Mount Gilboa, the Philistines hung the bodies of King Saul and his sons on the city’s fences.  King David conquered Bet She’an together with Megiddo and Ta’anach, and in King Solomon’s day it became part of an administrative region encompassing the country’s northern valleys. In 731 BC, the city was destroyed by the Assyrian King Tiglathpileser III.  In the second half of the fourth century BC, at the time of Alexander the Great, Bet She’an was reestablished as a Greek polis, with all the trappings of Greek culture in the East: colonnaded streets, temples, theaters, markets, fountains and bathhouses.  Later in the Hellenistic period, the city was named Nisa Scythopolis. The name derived from Greek mythology according to which Dionysus, the god of wine, interred his nurse, Nisa, in the city, and settled it with Scythians, tribesmen from what is now southern Russia, who were his personal guards.  In 107 BC, the Hasmoneans conquered Scythopolis. The pagan inhabitants, who were given the choice or converting or leaving, chose exile, and Jews resettled there, restoring the old biblical name Bet She’an. In 63 AD, the Romans took the city transforming it into an important member of the alliance of cities called the Decapolis.  During the Great Revolt of the Jews against the Romans (66 AD), the Jews of Bet She’an were murdered by their pagan neighbors, who took over the city and gave it back its pagan name. It developed greatly during the reign of Emperor Hadrian (117–138 AD) and Marcus Aurelius (161–180), and during the Late Roman period, Jews, pagans and Samaritans lived together there. Grand public buildings were built, adorned with inscriptions and statues.  In the fourth century, when Christianity became the religion of the empire, the city’s life-style changed again. The amphitheater where gladiators had fought was neglected, although the theater and the bathhouses continued in operation. Churches were built, but the center of town retained its pagan character for a long while.  In 409 AD, Bet She’an became the capital of the administrative region known as Palaestina Secunda. The city extended to 1,300 dunams (325 acres) and prospered, mainly thanks to the linen industry, and its population reached an unprecedented 40,000–50,000.  After the Arab conquest in the first half of the seventh century, the city gradually declined, losing its hegemony to Tiberias. Then, in 749 AD, an earthquake rocked the region and devastated Bet She’an––its evidence was prominent everywhere in the excavations. The name Scythopolis was eventually forgotten and the place became known as Beisan, recalling the ancient biblical name.  The Abbasid period saw a village established here. In the Middle Ages, settlement focused mainly on the rise to the south of the old city center, and the Crusaders built a fortress east of the destroyed amphitheater.  After the founding of the State of Israel, Bet She’an was reestablished and began to grow as a part of a modern city.

Nazareth.  On our way to Nazareth, we traveled once again through the Jezreel Valley.  Nazareth, boyhood home of Jesus, is now a modern city of some 80,000 people, including both Palestinians and Jews.  During Jesus’ time, the city’s population was only about 200. It is much more a Middle Eastern city in terms of its culture than was Tiberius.  After entering the city we walked through the Church of the Annunciation, so named to reflect the angel’s announcement to Mary that she was with child and would have a son who would be named Jesus. The church was filled with artwork from all over the world depicting Mary. Below the church are ruins which some believe to be that of Mary’s home. Following the church tour we visited a local pastry shop, then had lunch at a local restaurant.

Megiddo.  Our next stop was at Megiddo, an archaeological site reflecting some 25 layers of civilization and 7,000 years of history. The site was replete with hilltop ruins of stables, a sacrificial site, an independent water system, a grain storage site, and other features necessary for commerce and military protection. Many ancient kings fought here.  Solomon and other Israelite kings used this as a major center. From atop Megiddo, one has a broad view of the Jezreel Valley.

Strongly fortified throughout the ages, Megiddo boasted a stone Syrian-type gate in the days of Canaanite inhabitation.  This gate was straightened to accommodate chariots, was later than the bent-axis gate, constructed as a defensive measure, and earlier than the famous "Solomonic" gate, part of the construction of King Solomon described in 1 Kings 9:15.

Part of a large religious complex from the third millennium B.C., this sacrificial altar is striking in its size (10m diameter) and location (behind the temple). A staircase leads up to the altar, a small temenos fence surrounded it, and large concentrations of animal bones and ashes were found in the vicinity.

Needing secure access to its water supply, Megiddo utilized different water systems over its history.  In the 9th c. B.C., Ahab constructed a massive system with a 30 meter deep shaft and a 70 meter long tunnel. This Iron Age tunnel connected the bottom of Ahab’s shaft to the spring.  Before its construction, Megiddo residents had to leave the city walls in order to get water from the spring.  This tunnel was hewn from both ends at the same time (like Hezekiah’s Tunnel) and its builders were only one foot off when meeting in the middle.  This continued in use until the end of the Iron Age.

Emmaus.  Our final stop before entering Jerusalem was at Emmaus  The site contained ruins and is believed by many to be where Jesus broke bread with his two apostles who were on the road to Emmaus after his resurrection (Luke 24:13-35). The author of Luke places the story on the evening of the day of Jesus’ resurrection. The two disciples have heard the tomb of Jesus was found empty earlier that day. They are discussing the events of the past few days when a stranger asks them what they are discussing. "Their eyes were kept from recognizing him." He soon rebukes them for their unbelief and gives them a Bible study on prophecies about the Messiah. On reaching Emmaus, they ask the stranger to join them for the evening meal. When he breaks the bread "their eyes were opened" and they recognize him as the resurrected Jesus. Jesus immediately vanishes. Cleopas and his friend then hasten back to Jerusalem to carry the news to the other disciples, and arrive in time to proclaim to the eleven who were gathered together with others that Jesus truly is alive. While describing the events, Jesus appeared again to all who were there, giving them a commission to evangelize. Then he took them out as far as Bethany and blessed them before ascending back into heaven. Many of the travelers on this tour, including Kay, had been on the “Walk to Emmaus" and this was a poignant time in their pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

Jerusalem.  Our plans were to visit the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem prior to checking in at our hotel. However, the Jewish Sabbath was only an hour away, and no parking places could be found for the bus, though our driver drove completely around the walled Old City. Consequently, it was off to the hotel, and a really good dinner. Tomorrow, we are off to Bethlehem.

Our travels today took us to upper Galilee, called the “land of Naphtali” in the Bible.  We would end up being within 1/2 mile of the Lebanon and Israel border and only hundreds of feet from the Syria and Israel border.  We passed by Hazor, a large Canaanite and Israelite city; Hazor is mentioned in the Bible with respect to the Israelite conquest of northern Canaan (Joshua 11:10-13) and in the story of Deborah and Barak (Judges 4:2).  Hazor was also a city of King Solomon (1 Kings 9:15).
Tel Dan.  Our first stop was at Tel Dan.  Tel means an unnatural hill, a layering of historical levels.  We walked through the Dan Nature Reserve, enjoying the rushing streams and quiet pools. We continued our walk to the ruins of Tel Dan, another important Canaanite and Israelite city. Ancient Dan was first excavated in 1966, exposing sections of imposing walls and gates, and a ritual site dating to the time of the events recounted in the Bible in Judges 18:27-29. The Israelite gate (Proverbs 31) was from the 18th century BC, and was discovered completely intact with an arched entry, considered one of the oldest complete arches in the world. The one item I found most interesting was a replica of a fossilized tablet found in the ruins containing an inscription of Hazael, King of Damascus, bragging about his victory over the king of Israel and the king of the House of David; this fossilized tablet dates from the second half of the ninth century BC. This is the first time that the words, “house of David” were found outside of the Bible.  Dan was our closest proximity to the Israeli/Lebanese border, and our walk through the ruins revealed bunkers and trenches left from the war.
Caesarea Philippi.  Our second stop was Caesarea Philippi, ruins of an ancient pagan city, and more importantly to Christians as the site where Jesus visited with his disciples and where Peter identified Jesus as the Messiah, also known as the “Great Confession” (Matthew 16:13-20). Caesarea Philippi includes the ruins of many altars where false gods were worshiped; most prominent of these are found in the Grotto of Pan.
Nimrod’s Fortress.  Next, we ascended a mountaintop where we viewed the ruins of Nimrod’s Fortress.  The Fortress was about 8 acres in area and was quite impressive, with many stone spiral stairs, secret passages, pools, and towers. The “castle” is one of the largest and most impressive fortresses surviving in the Middle East since the Middle Ages. It’s difficult to remember, when in Israel, that much of the early civilization was that of the Mediterranean, i.e. land was controlled over time by numerous empires, including the Israelites, Canaanites, Mongols, and Crusaders, and then in 1947, Israel.

Mas’ada and Valley of Tears.  After a brief tour of Nimrod’s Fortress we drove through several mountain towns including Mas’ada, shelled over and over through the numerous battles between Syria and Israel; Mas’ada was a clean town, with modern shops and infrastructure, and inhabited by Druse, a religious sect some 1000 years old. We also drove through the valley of tears where hundreds of Israeli and Syrian soldiers were killed in the Yom Kipper War, on the Israeli/Syrian border. Tanks, armor, and other war debris were visible in the area.